Hey Everyone,
Today I'm finally putting out my notes from a tasting session I recently attended with Scottish wine writer, Tom Cannavan. Tom maintains the popular Wine Pages website and holds various distinctions throughout the world of wine, judging competitions on three continents, to holding the Louis Roederer Wine Writer's award to having appeared on Scottish television. Suffice to say, an impressive list of credentials!
The tasting he took us through was focused on Portuguese wines, that chronically underrated wine producing country, and I have to say that even for someone who recognises the qualities and virtues of Portugal's wine, I was surprised by some of these bottles. They ran the gamut from light spritsy whites to full-blooded heavy reds with at least one wine which was completely unlike anything I'd ever had before.
So here are my findings...
Alvarinho 2009 Capitao-mor. This wine is rich and round. Very fresh acidity but plenty of fruit, mineral and great balance. Long mineral laced finish. Part of a new wave of vinho verde, going for a bigger, more concentrated style. I like it... A lot.
Lagoalva 2011 Vinho Regional Tejo. blend of all sorts of grapes, modern style of wine making. Something reminiscent of Aussie viognier and even elements reminiscent of Sancerre. Mineral, peachy fruit and super pleasant.
Pato Frio 2011 DOC Alentejo. Very stinky and almost sweaty on the nose. Reminds me of Italian verdicchio. Big mouthfeel, super chewy and almost oily. Interesting stuff, definitely unique. I like it a lot.
Quinta da Raza Vinhao 2011. WTF. Very cool deep colour. One of very few red juiced grapes. Very interesting fizziness, almost what i expect from Inho Verde, but red. If you like Coca-Cola and want a quality wine, this is it. The acidity is high, bits of sweetness and fruit. Very pleasant and refreshing, could be nicely chilled. I wouldn't have more than a few glasses, but in context and with the right food, this is a gem!
Tinta da Anfora 2009- More classic aromas of light black fruit; brambles rather than currants, perhaps touches of flowers, hints of spice and a background of meat. Very green on the palate, nice tannins, and a dusting of rosemary and sage. Very high quality stuff.
Quinta de la Rosa 2009 Douro- Deep dark colour, bright sour currants and cherries. Highly aromatic, bits of violets. Nice restrained elegant finish, lovely stuff with great balance. What can I say aside from what a good value this wine is at £15. I would happily pay £20 for such a solid, well made wine. I would be curious to put this bottle away in a cellar in some neglected corner and just forget about it only to discover it in ten or fifteen years to see what it's up to.
So thank you Tom. You showed me plenty of good value wines to be found in the Portuguese section of a good local merchant. I hope you all take that leap of faith into a new range of great wines and you will be happy you'd done so.
Much Love,
G.
Thursday, December 6, 2012
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Monday, December 3, 2012
Risuena Pinot Noir
Hey Everyone,
Today I am trying a lovely bottle of Risuena 2010 Pinot Noir from California produced by Zepaltas Wines based in Santa Rosa. Before I write up my tasting notes on this wine, I must make a disclaimer...
I will freely admit that I have only come upon rare experiences of truly inspiring Pinot Noir from outside of Burgundy and indeed few within Burgundy which justify the grape's traditionally high cost. I know that Pinot is a fickle little grape, with a reputation for low yields, sensitivity to the elements and human working but with potentially great rewards to be reaped from the fortunate and skillful winemaker. That said, and while I generally enjoy Pinot Noir, I am still trying to gain a true appreciation for all the subtle nuances of this elegant, fabled grape. Perhaps my regular consumption of big tannic Portuguese wines, Napa Cabernet and Bordeaux has rendered my palate insensitive. I shall have to simply keep tasting as many as I can find.
The Risuena introduces itself with a surprisingly dark robe of deep ruby. It is attractive in the glass with a prominent viscosity, likely due to it's high %14.2 ABV. The nose is rich and spicy, with notes of clove and nutmeg sprinkled lightly over a mixture of raspberries, brambles and red currants all complimented by hints of violets and roses. There is something slightly sharp about it which may be a slightly boozy nose, but it is subtle and doesn't really take much away from the experience of the wine.
The palate is dominated by the floral element with some more bitter citrus fruits, such as bergamot and orange peal. The acid and alcohol are both present but not overpowering, which is impressive for me seeing as the flavours are all relatively delicate. This is clearly a good Pinot and overall and enjoyable wine. If you manage to find a bottle along your hunt for a tasty good value Pinot, this is what I'd go for.
Much Love,
G
Today I am trying a lovely bottle of Risuena 2010 Pinot Noir from California produced by Zepaltas Wines based in Santa Rosa. Before I write up my tasting notes on this wine, I must make a disclaimer...
I will freely admit that I have only come upon rare experiences of truly inspiring Pinot Noir from outside of Burgundy and indeed few within Burgundy which justify the grape's traditionally high cost. I know that Pinot is a fickle little grape, with a reputation for low yields, sensitivity to the elements and human working but with potentially great rewards to be reaped from the fortunate and skillful winemaker. That said, and while I generally enjoy Pinot Noir, I am still trying to gain a true appreciation for all the subtle nuances of this elegant, fabled grape. Perhaps my regular consumption of big tannic Portuguese wines, Napa Cabernet and Bordeaux has rendered my palate insensitive. I shall have to simply keep tasting as many as I can find.
The Risuena introduces itself with a surprisingly dark robe of deep ruby. It is attractive in the glass with a prominent viscosity, likely due to it's high %14.2 ABV. The nose is rich and spicy, with notes of clove and nutmeg sprinkled lightly over a mixture of raspberries, brambles and red currants all complimented by hints of violets and roses. There is something slightly sharp about it which may be a slightly boozy nose, but it is subtle and doesn't really take much away from the experience of the wine.
The palate is dominated by the floral element with some more bitter citrus fruits, such as bergamot and orange peal. The acid and alcohol are both present but not overpowering, which is impressive for me seeing as the flavours are all relatively delicate. This is clearly a good Pinot and overall and enjoyable wine. If you manage to find a bottle along your hunt for a tasty good value Pinot, this is what I'd go for.
Much Love,
G
Thursday, November 15, 2012
Hermanuspietersfontein 2009 Die Martha
Hey Everyone,
Happily back in rainy St. Andrews, I am writing up a little review of an interesting bottle with a very difficult to pronounce name. Hermanuspietersfontein is one of my favourite producers for reasons other than the very classic Afrikaaner name. The last wine I had from their collection was the 2008 Swartskaap Cabernet Franc, a really pleasant and interesting, if slightly one-dimensional wine. It was a unique approach to a single varietal in South Africa which I have not seen elsewhere (though I do look forward with great anticipation to the Sijnn Touriga Nacional as soon as I do get a chance to try it).
Tonights wine however is a more classic example of a Rhone blend of 74% Shiraz, 23% Mourvédre and 3% Viognier. Initially the nose is pretty standard for a big South African red, with prominent cocoa, spice and black currant. It does develop a bit though and takes on a very old-world aroma of olive. Black rather than green olives, I would add, though with a few years of ageing ahead it is likely that green olive would become a dominant aroma on the nose. There is pleanty of leather and licorice with oak driven flavours of nutmeg, cinnamon and coconut as well as a touch of cigar box for added complexity.
While not a very challenging wine, it is overwhelmingly enjoyable and pleasing. While I think it might be a bit too confected for steak or lamb, I could see this going wonderfully with barbecues and slowroasted pork. I think some germanic food like sausages and boar would do nicely as well.
This is just the sort of wine I love on a cool evening in November, it's warming, pleasant and easily enjoyable. Hope you are enjoying something equally satisfying these days!
Much Love,
G
Happily back in rainy St. Andrews, I am writing up a little review of an interesting bottle with a very difficult to pronounce name. Hermanuspietersfontein is one of my favourite producers for reasons other than the very classic Afrikaaner name. The last wine I had from their collection was the 2008 Swartskaap Cabernet Franc, a really pleasant and interesting, if slightly one-dimensional wine. It was a unique approach to a single varietal in South Africa which I have not seen elsewhere (though I do look forward with great anticipation to the Sijnn Touriga Nacional as soon as I do get a chance to try it).
Tonights wine however is a more classic example of a Rhone blend of 74% Shiraz, 23% Mourvédre and 3% Viognier. Initially the nose is pretty standard for a big South African red, with prominent cocoa, spice and black currant. It does develop a bit though and takes on a very old-world aroma of olive. Black rather than green olives, I would add, though with a few years of ageing ahead it is likely that green olive would become a dominant aroma on the nose. There is pleanty of leather and licorice with oak driven flavours of nutmeg, cinnamon and coconut as well as a touch of cigar box for added complexity.
While not a very challenging wine, it is overwhelmingly enjoyable and pleasing. While I think it might be a bit too confected for steak or lamb, I could see this going wonderfully with barbecues and slowroasted pork. I think some germanic food like sausages and boar would do nicely as well.
This is just the sort of wine I love on a cool evening in November, it's warming, pleasant and easily enjoyable. Hope you are enjoying something equally satisfying these days!
Much Love,
G
Sunday, November 4, 2012
Wines tasted in Paris
Hey Everyone,
Today I am putting out the tasting notes for a few rather nice wines I have had the chance to try during my travels in Paris. These are not particularly available in the UK, but hopefully when a better representation of their styles becomes available, you will think back and recall that you heard good things about these appellations.
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First off, I spent my first night searching the streets for a good wine bar, and after realising that such a thing in Paris is tremendously expensive, I looked instead for a good wine shop, which I was fortunate enough to find. The first wine I tried was a 2009 Rigal Cahors. Made up of 70% Malbec and 30% Merlot, this wine was big and dark, earning it's historic title of 'Black Wine' which dates to the middle ages. It had aromas of black berries, and smoke, currants and flint as well as the classic Malbec aromas of clove, coffee and cocoa after a few hours left to breathe. It was deep, bold and satisfying and representative of a style of wine which I hope makes it more regularly to the rest of the world.
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Next I was able to get a hold of the second tasty Bergerac of my trip, being a 2009 Roc de Miremont. I was interested in this one in particular as it was not Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot based, but rather it focused on Cabernet Franc as the lead varietal. It was softer than the standard Bergerac wines with which I am familiar, but it was definitely complex and pleasing on par with the rest of the Bordeaux I experienced on this trip.
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The last wine I will write about here is the most recent of my trip, being that I am drinking it now.. It is a 2011 Château Auney L'Hermitage Graves Blanc. It was about 10 euros and for the price I found the most satisfying white of the trip. It was oaky with hints of peach, lychee and a bit of that rocky gravel character that does such a service to Graves wine. It was refreshing and possessed a zesty acidic edge allowing balance for it's big, opulent flavours. Over all a pleasing wine. I wish with all my heart that oaky Bordeaux blanc under £10 were a reality in Britain. If I could make a wine in a particular style, it would be along the lines of Bordeaux Blanc. Great stuff.
Anyways, there were plenty more wines tasted in restaurants and from bottles during my trip to Paris but I only wanted to highlight these three for their general interest. They are styles of wines which should be available to the punter in Britain because they fill a gap in the market. I hope you get to try some interesting French wines in the future and if you find something of interest, please send your discoveries to me at grapepresswines@gmail.com.
Much Love,
G
Today I am putting out the tasting notes for a few rather nice wines I have had the chance to try during my travels in Paris. These are not particularly available in the UK, but hopefully when a better representation of their styles becomes available, you will think back and recall that you heard good things about these appellations.
.JPG)
First off, I spent my first night searching the streets for a good wine bar, and after realising that such a thing in Paris is tremendously expensive, I looked instead for a good wine shop, which I was fortunate enough to find. The first wine I tried was a 2009 Rigal Cahors. Made up of 70% Malbec and 30% Merlot, this wine was big and dark, earning it's historic title of 'Black Wine' which dates to the middle ages. It had aromas of black berries, and smoke, currants and flint as well as the classic Malbec aromas of clove, coffee and cocoa after a few hours left to breathe. It was deep, bold and satisfying and representative of a style of wine which I hope makes it more regularly to the rest of the world..JPG)
Next I was able to get a hold of the second tasty Bergerac of my trip, being a 2009 Roc de Miremont. I was interested in this one in particular as it was not Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot based, but rather it focused on Cabernet Franc as the lead varietal. It was softer than the standard Bergerac wines with which I am familiar, but it was definitely complex and pleasing on par with the rest of the Bordeaux I experienced on this trip..JPG)
The last wine I will write about here is the most recent of my trip, being that I am drinking it now.. It is a 2011 Château Auney L'Hermitage Graves Blanc. It was about 10 euros and for the price I found the most satisfying white of the trip. It was oaky with hints of peach, lychee and a bit of that rocky gravel character that does such a service to Graves wine. It was refreshing and possessed a zesty acidic edge allowing balance for it's big, opulent flavours. Over all a pleasing wine. I wish with all my heart that oaky Bordeaux blanc under £10 were a reality in Britain. If I could make a wine in a particular style, it would be along the lines of Bordeaux Blanc. Great stuff.Anyways, there were plenty more wines tasted in restaurants and from bottles during my trip to Paris but I only wanted to highlight these three for their general interest. They are styles of wines which should be available to the punter in Britain because they fill a gap in the market. I hope you get to try some interesting French wines in the future and if you find something of interest, please send your discoveries to me at grapepresswines@gmail.com.
Much Love,
G
Thursday, October 11, 2012
Buffalo Trace
Hey Everyone,
Today is a bit out of the ordinary, as I am writing up my expereinces on bourbon, a spirit which I usually don't really give a rat's arse about, as I consider it all tasty if a bit normal. I was invited to taste a selection of Buffalo Trace's whiskey's in Edinburgh and got to try some expressions which were somewhat out of the ordinary, including a whisky considered by Jim Murray to be one of the world's best. Whether I agree with the writer of the Whisky Bible, I will not yet say, but I will let my tasting notes for the whiskey's do the talking...
Buffalo Trace Tasting notes- Bon Vivant's Companion, Thistle Street Edinburgh. 11 October 2012.
White Dog- Unaged spirit. A bit of cocoa, vanilla, a definite predecessor for the whiskey. A big palate, silky and surprisingly smooth. Not as fruity as some new make I've experienced, but some pleasant aromas. Interesting. Not pleasant, but interesting.
Buffalo Trace-8 years-ish , 45% rye-bourbon. Initial ethanol, crisp fruity aroma, a hint of spice, banana, a bit of a LCD (lowest common denominator) whisky, but standard and pleasant. Boring palate, and neutral finish.
Eagle Rare 10 y/o. Big ethanol nose, more spice, like cinnamon ice cream. Woodier palate, (good sarcastic remark by the blender catches us all off guard, going over most of the present hipsters' heads) still a bit neutral but with a better, more interesting finish.
Elmer T. Lee 9-11 y/o. More rye heavy, intended to be sweeter. Much more of a molasses flavour like mature grain whisky. More reserved maturity, a bit of spice on the finish. Quite well balanced. This shows a bit more class and poise than the previous three. Elmer T Lee is a 90+ year old blender, so I think I see his practiced hands coming into play here.
Wheated Bourbon 12 y/o, no rye at all in the recipe, which would encourage more sweetness as opposed to the spicier rye. Grassier, fresh bell pepper, nice smooth, light palate, it is quite sweet and pleasant. Really rather nice.
Sazerac Straight Rye, 6-8 y-o. Made of at least 51% rye with corn for sweetness. Awesome branding. Roasted cinnamon aromas with fresh chili, jalapeño perhaps. Very dry by comparison, very pleasing. Possibly better than the previous. So far the best. Will the last whisky be the piece de résistance? Or a highlight on this one's funkiness?
George T. Stagg 15 y/o 71.4% uncut, unfiltered. Freaking massive, hugely boozy nose with a lot of spiciness at first, but quickly softens in the mouth to a neutral finish. Still thinner that I would like from a whisky. Maple syrup comes through with water. The texture is almost thinner for the high proof, and with water, much more of an interesting style comes forward. This may be Jim Murray's favourite whiskey, but its sure not mine.
Basically, whilst I do enjoy it, I really just don't get it entirely. The Eagle Rare, however, made a damn good Old-Fashioned...
Much Love,
G
Today is a bit out of the ordinary, as I am writing up my expereinces on bourbon, a spirit which I usually don't really give a rat's arse about, as I consider it all tasty if a bit normal. I was invited to taste a selection of Buffalo Trace's whiskey's in Edinburgh and got to try some expressions which were somewhat out of the ordinary, including a whisky considered by Jim Murray to be one of the world's best. Whether I agree with the writer of the Whisky Bible, I will not yet say, but I will let my tasting notes for the whiskey's do the talking...
Buffalo Trace Tasting notes- Bon Vivant's Companion, Thistle Street Edinburgh. 11 October 2012.
White Dog- Unaged spirit. A bit of cocoa, vanilla, a definite predecessor for the whiskey. A big palate, silky and surprisingly smooth. Not as fruity as some new make I've experienced, but some pleasant aromas. Interesting. Not pleasant, but interesting.
Buffalo Trace-8 years-ish , 45% rye-bourbon. Initial ethanol, crisp fruity aroma, a hint of spice, banana, a bit of a LCD (lowest common denominator) whisky, but standard and pleasant. Boring palate, and neutral finish.
Eagle Rare 10 y/o. Big ethanol nose, more spice, like cinnamon ice cream. Woodier palate, (good sarcastic remark by the blender catches us all off guard, going over most of the present hipsters' heads) still a bit neutral but with a better, more interesting finish.
Elmer T. Lee 9-11 y/o. More rye heavy, intended to be sweeter. Much more of a molasses flavour like mature grain whisky. More reserved maturity, a bit of spice on the finish. Quite well balanced. This shows a bit more class and poise than the previous three. Elmer T Lee is a 90+ year old blender, so I think I see his practiced hands coming into play here.
Wheated Bourbon 12 y/o, no rye at all in the recipe, which would encourage more sweetness as opposed to the spicier rye. Grassier, fresh bell pepper, nice smooth, light palate, it is quite sweet and pleasant. Really rather nice.
Sazerac Straight Rye, 6-8 y-o. Made of at least 51% rye with corn for sweetness. Awesome branding. Roasted cinnamon aromas with fresh chili, jalapeño perhaps. Very dry by comparison, very pleasing. Possibly better than the previous. So far the best. Will the last whisky be the piece de résistance? Or a highlight on this one's funkiness?
George T. Stagg 15 y/o 71.4% uncut, unfiltered. Freaking massive, hugely boozy nose with a lot of spiciness at first, but quickly softens in the mouth to a neutral finish. Still thinner that I would like from a whisky. Maple syrup comes through with water. The texture is almost thinner for the high proof, and with water, much more of an interesting style comes forward. This may be Jim Murray's favourite whiskey, but its sure not mine.
Basically, whilst I do enjoy it, I really just don't get it entirely. The Eagle Rare, however, made a damn good Old-Fashioned...
Much Love,
G
Wednesday, October 3, 2012
Torres Gran Coronas 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
Hey Everyone,
Tonight I am trying a nifty bottle of Spanish Cabernet Sauvignon from one of the members of the Primum Familiae Vini (First Families of Wine). Familia Torres, a sort of catch all operation making pretty much everything has been called the Starbucks of wine, meaning that you're rarely wow-ed but you'll not find any glaring issues with the product. Essentially, you always know what you will be getting from a bottle of Torres wine.
Torres, being perhaps the only grower with a reputation for it's Cabernet Sauvignon in Spain, is best known for it's cult wine, Mas la Plana, a big, full-on almost Napa-style Cabernet bottled in a Burgundy-shape bottle with an iconic black label. Selling for around £35 a bottle, there are plenty of skeptics for this wine, as it just doesn't fit any defined Spanish style and costs a fair bit.
At a more affordable price, around £12 or so, an entry level Cabernet called Gran Coronas is a nice, full-on Cab, with straightforward varietal characteristics, a good amount of tannin and enough acidity to take on fatty meats. It is an engaging wine that is both classic Cabernet, and definitely Spanish. It has those nice vanilla oak flavours, bright cherry and strawberry aromas; the signature of Spanish red as well as varietal hints of mint and bell pepper which call out Cabernet Sauvignon. Also, there is a hint of maturity with aromas of leather and cedar.
I had this bottle with a beautifully cooked steak with a healthy dose of pepper and garlic and while it worked wonderfully, I would see this wine pairing even better with a leg of duck or a bit of lamb shank. Even on it's own, it is a bloody good bottle of wine for the price, and while I usually don't bother heaping praise on the bigger houses, I do like that Torres has stuck with this variety and found a niche for themselves as the purveyors of Cabernet Sauvignon in Spain. I say good on them and I am happy that this wine presents itself so pleasantly and enjoyably and that I am glad to have another affordable, desireable Cabernet cross my path.
I hope that if you come across a bottle of the Gran Coronas you will give it a try, because it is a good, reliable wine. Also, if you're looking to splash out a bit and go for the Mas la Plana, I can say with confidence that you will be getting a really cool bottle of Cabernet.
Much Love,
G
Tonight I am trying a nifty bottle of Spanish Cabernet Sauvignon from one of the members of the Primum Familiae Vini (First Families of Wine). Familia Torres, a sort of catch all operation making pretty much everything has been called the Starbucks of wine, meaning that you're rarely wow-ed but you'll not find any glaring issues with the product. Essentially, you always know what you will be getting from a bottle of Torres wine.
Torres, being perhaps the only grower with a reputation for it's Cabernet Sauvignon in Spain, is best known for it's cult wine, Mas la Plana, a big, full-on almost Napa-style Cabernet bottled in a Burgundy-shape bottle with an iconic black label. Selling for around £35 a bottle, there are plenty of skeptics for this wine, as it just doesn't fit any defined Spanish style and costs a fair bit.
At a more affordable price, around £12 or so, an entry level Cabernet called Gran Coronas is a nice, full-on Cab, with straightforward varietal characteristics, a good amount of tannin and enough acidity to take on fatty meats. It is an engaging wine that is both classic Cabernet, and definitely Spanish. It has those nice vanilla oak flavours, bright cherry and strawberry aromas; the signature of Spanish red as well as varietal hints of mint and bell pepper which call out Cabernet Sauvignon. Also, there is a hint of maturity with aromas of leather and cedar.
I had this bottle with a beautifully cooked steak with a healthy dose of pepper and garlic and while it worked wonderfully, I would see this wine pairing even better with a leg of duck or a bit of lamb shank. Even on it's own, it is a bloody good bottle of wine for the price, and while I usually don't bother heaping praise on the bigger houses, I do like that Torres has stuck with this variety and found a niche for themselves as the purveyors of Cabernet Sauvignon in Spain. I say good on them and I am happy that this wine presents itself so pleasantly and enjoyably and that I am glad to have another affordable, desireable Cabernet cross my path.
I hope that if you come across a bottle of the Gran Coronas you will give it a try, because it is a good, reliable wine. Also, if you're looking to splash out a bit and go for the Mas la Plana, I can say with confidence that you will be getting a really cool bottle of Cabernet.
Much Love,
G
Wednesday, September 26, 2012
Sijnn Rosé 2008
Hey Everyone,
Here's a recent bottle of interest that I came across on my recent visit down to London. It was a South African rosé made from barrel-fermented Mourvédre, Shiraz and Trincadeira, and was a striking example of just how cool a rose can be. I would rarely justify spending much more than £15 on a bottle of pink wine that isn't Champagne, but in this case I'll make an exception.
It was rich, with intense aromas of raspberries, strawberries and red currants and had a gorgeous complexity with a herbal, yeasty profile. The wine is darker than some kiwi Pinot Noirs I've come across showing a beautiful colour like red topaz. Despite the depth of colour, this is most certainly a rosé, with it's delicate, fruity flavours, complete absence of tannin and spritsy texture.
It may be a bit volatile, given it's slight sparkle, but in reality, this is a point in it's favour for me. It gives the wine a lift which many rosé wines lack and may contribute to it's intense fragrance. I also am a big fan of the use of Mourvédre as the base grape. This grape has given me the two best rosés I've ever had.
While this wine is quite difficult to get a hold of, being made on a very small farm in Swellendam South Africa, it may be found here and there in the more eclectic wine shops and online merchants around. Despite it's higher price tag of around £20, it is well worth it for perhaps the best non-sparkling rosé i've had in the past year.
Much Love,
G
Here's a recent bottle of interest that I came across on my recent visit down to London. It was a South African rosé made from barrel-fermented Mourvédre, Shiraz and Trincadeira, and was a striking example of just how cool a rose can be. I would rarely justify spending much more than £15 on a bottle of pink wine that isn't Champagne, but in this case I'll make an exception.
It was rich, with intense aromas of raspberries, strawberries and red currants and had a gorgeous complexity with a herbal, yeasty profile. The wine is darker than some kiwi Pinot Noirs I've come across showing a beautiful colour like red topaz. Despite the depth of colour, this is most certainly a rosé, with it's delicate, fruity flavours, complete absence of tannin and spritsy texture.
It may be a bit volatile, given it's slight sparkle, but in reality, this is a point in it's favour for me. It gives the wine a lift which many rosé wines lack and may contribute to it's intense fragrance. I also am a big fan of the use of Mourvédre as the base grape. This grape has given me the two best rosés I've ever had.
While this wine is quite difficult to get a hold of, being made on a very small farm in Swellendam South Africa, it may be found here and there in the more eclectic wine shops and online merchants around. Despite it's higher price tag of around £20, it is well worth it for perhaps the best non-sparkling rosé i've had in the past year.
Much Love,
G
Sunday, September 23, 2012
Return of the King (of wines)
Hey Everyone,
Here's a bit of a throwback to an earlier post. In fact, the post with which I first made this blog public was a declaration of my love for the Hungarian Tokaj region. I rarely get a chance to taste Tokaji, yet my fondness for this beautiful and noble sweet wine is always at the front of my mind when I am considering any other wine region. For me, Tokaji wine is the criterion against which I measure all other regions and styles, by virtue of it's everlasting adherence to tradition and commitment to representing the Hungarian people.
Therefore, when I get the chance to tast Tokaji, I never pass it up and by wonderful coincedence, I had two such opportunites in the past week; each a mere two days apart. Here are my findings...
The first, a Tokaji Szamarodni Edes from 2002 was a simple tokaji, the kind of wine I imagine would be more or less a common wine for everyday consumption if I lived in Hungary or a country that gave enough attention to the import and consumption of Tokaji wines. 'Edes' meaning sweet, it didn't have any statement of puttonyos concentration, but I would say it was around about a 4; not a sweet viscous thing, nor was it particularly dry. The nose was full of flowers and peaches with a bit of marshmallow and some roasted vanilla beans involved.
At a slightly touristy wine shop I paid the equivalent of ten quid for this bottle. I'm guessing that in a local bórszag one would pay about two-thirds that price, making this about the best value sweet wine I have ever had. Bringing this wine back with me, I felt like I'd made a huge profit form my trip to Hungary, especially as I could imagine a bottle of this quality selling for around 40 pounds. That disparity in price was more than the cost of my flight (both ways) on Wizz A!r.
The second wine was a classic 1999 Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos from Crown Estates. Crown estates is likely to be the only producer of Tokaji anyone in the UK has ever tried, although the Royal Tokaji Company is hopefully making more inroads to the British market, and therefore can be a sort of standard for judging the quality of Tokaji. That said, this was a fantastic bottle of wine. It was beginning to show signs of approaching maturity, with a beautifully sweet palate, rich stewed fruit character and a surprising off-dry finish. Though this bottle sells for a hefty price tag of around 42 pounds, I would take it anyday over a German Auslese or Sauternes of the same price.
Tasting these wines reminded me of just how much I love Hungarian wine and I wish for a day when Tokaji of this character and quality are available on a larger, more affordable scale. But until that day, I feel very fortunate to have tasted these wines when I did, and if you ever find yourself in the position to taste some of the amber nectar of the Magyar, I Hope you go for it.
Much love,
G
Here's a bit of a throwback to an earlier post. In fact, the post with which I first made this blog public was a declaration of my love for the Hungarian Tokaj region. I rarely get a chance to taste Tokaji, yet my fondness for this beautiful and noble sweet wine is always at the front of my mind when I am considering any other wine region. For me, Tokaji wine is the criterion against which I measure all other regions and styles, by virtue of it's everlasting adherence to tradition and commitment to representing the Hungarian people.
Therefore, when I get the chance to tast Tokaji, I never pass it up and by wonderful coincedence, I had two such opportunites in the past week; each a mere two days apart. Here are my findings...
The first, a Tokaji Szamarodni Edes from 2002 was a simple tokaji, the kind of wine I imagine would be more or less a common wine for everyday consumption if I lived in Hungary or a country that gave enough attention to the import and consumption of Tokaji wines. 'Edes' meaning sweet, it didn't have any statement of puttonyos concentration, but I would say it was around about a 4; not a sweet viscous thing, nor was it particularly dry. The nose was full of flowers and peaches with a bit of marshmallow and some roasted vanilla beans involved.
At a slightly touristy wine shop I paid the equivalent of ten quid for this bottle. I'm guessing that in a local bórszag one would pay about two-thirds that price, making this about the best value sweet wine I have ever had. Bringing this wine back with me, I felt like I'd made a huge profit form my trip to Hungary, especially as I could imagine a bottle of this quality selling for around 40 pounds. That disparity in price was more than the cost of my flight (both ways) on Wizz A!r.
The second wine was a classic 1999 Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos from Crown Estates. Crown estates is likely to be the only producer of Tokaji anyone in the UK has ever tried, although the Royal Tokaji Company is hopefully making more inroads to the British market, and therefore can be a sort of standard for judging the quality of Tokaji. That said, this was a fantastic bottle of wine. It was beginning to show signs of approaching maturity, with a beautifully sweet palate, rich stewed fruit character and a surprising off-dry finish. Though this bottle sells for a hefty price tag of around 42 pounds, I would take it anyday over a German Auslese or Sauternes of the same price.
Tasting these wines reminded me of just how much I love Hungarian wine and I wish for a day when Tokaji of this character and quality are available on a larger, more affordable scale. But until that day, I feel very fortunate to have tasted these wines when I did, and if you ever find yourself in the position to taste some of the amber nectar of the Magyar, I Hope you go for it.
Much love,
G
Wednesday, August 29, 2012
2010 L'Expresio del Priorat
Hey Everyone,
Today I'm trying a lovely bottle of Priorat; a wine from Spain's northeast. Situated in the Catalonian countryside several hours west of Barcelona, Priorat is one of the great treasures of Spanish winemaking. Though it is apparently condemned to be forever overshadowed by Penedes locally (the home of Cava production) and Rioja and Ribera del Duero nationally, Priorat is a wine region that has the potential to make lively, full-bodied and satisfying wines with complex characters and even some longevity in the cellar.
This Priorat in particular is a lovely example and has just about everything I would expect from this underrated region. It is very full bodied, friendly and approachable with it's fruitiness and oakiness, but it holds onto enough complexity to keep it interesting for one who is a bit more pensive with their wines. Basically, it's a good all-rounder so I could happily see it going with a big meal and being used to wash down some barbecued pork ribs and burgers, or by itself as a more thoughtful glass on it's own.
The colour is deep and nearly opaque in the glass with a ruby brilliance. The nose is quite big with plenty of deep bramble, black currant and spice as well as complex notes of smoke, new leather and licorice. There may even be some coconut in there, but it may be my imagination. Spanish wine makers often use new American oak barrels for their wines which does give the licorice and coconut aromas, so I may be expecting coconut and therefore smelling it.
The palate is gorgeous with surprisingly grippy tannins, but a nice velvety profile overall. Flakes of stoney gravel betray the licorella soil type which makes up the Catalunyan countryside and show the class of this wine. I love it when a wine shows it's terroir (even though I don't like the word terroir) and this example of Priorat certainly does. The acidity along with the tannins and the full-on fruit character leads me to think that this has some ageability in it, but I say 'why bother.' It's beautiful now and I think it's youth is in it's favour.
I do hope you consider giving this one a try, as it is a lovely bottle for around about 17 pounds. Priorat may not be as historically respected as Rioja, but I think it's a very independent Spanish style and a great value for money.
Much Love,
G
Today I'm trying a lovely bottle of Priorat; a wine from Spain's northeast. Situated in the Catalonian countryside several hours west of Barcelona, Priorat is one of the great treasures of Spanish winemaking. Though it is apparently condemned to be forever overshadowed by Penedes locally (the home of Cava production) and Rioja and Ribera del Duero nationally, Priorat is a wine region that has the potential to make lively, full-bodied and satisfying wines with complex characters and even some longevity in the cellar.
This Priorat in particular is a lovely example and has just about everything I would expect from this underrated region. It is very full bodied, friendly and approachable with it's fruitiness and oakiness, but it holds onto enough complexity to keep it interesting for one who is a bit more pensive with their wines. Basically, it's a good all-rounder so I could happily see it going with a big meal and being used to wash down some barbecued pork ribs and burgers, or by itself as a more thoughtful glass on it's own.
The colour is deep and nearly opaque in the glass with a ruby brilliance. The nose is quite big with plenty of deep bramble, black currant and spice as well as complex notes of smoke, new leather and licorice. There may even be some coconut in there, but it may be my imagination. Spanish wine makers often use new American oak barrels for their wines which does give the licorice and coconut aromas, so I may be expecting coconut and therefore smelling it.
The palate is gorgeous with surprisingly grippy tannins, but a nice velvety profile overall. Flakes of stoney gravel betray the licorella soil type which makes up the Catalunyan countryside and show the class of this wine. I love it when a wine shows it's terroir (even though I don't like the word terroir) and this example of Priorat certainly does. The acidity along with the tannins and the full-on fruit character leads me to think that this has some ageability in it, but I say 'why bother.' It's beautiful now and I think it's youth is in it's favour.
I do hope you consider giving this one a try, as it is a lovely bottle for around about 17 pounds. Priorat may not be as historically respected as Rioja, but I think it's a very independent Spanish style and a great value for money.
Much Love,
G
Tuesday, August 21, 2012
Growers Champagnes- Ode to the Recoltant!
Hey Everyone,
We are currently experiencing an explosive boom in the beer industry and thousands of small scale, independent microbreweries are cropping up everywhere in the UK from St. Austell's to St. Andrews, making for a very exciting time to be a beer drinker. When was the last time we saw such a revolutionary expansion in the wine world? When Australia broke onto the scene? When the Californians won the 1976 Paris Tasting? Believe it or not, a revolution is now upon us. All we have to do is look beyond the labels of some of the most resonant names in the wine world. Thereby we may be shocked by the potential excitement being generated by what may be the world's most familiar yet beguiling wine region, if we only let it enthral us as much as it should.
Several hours northwest of Paris, situated in and around the towns of Épernay, Bouzy, Dizy and Cumières, there is the historic and magnificent region of Champagne. With grand, palatial mansions and some of the most beautiful vineyard vistas you could imagine, Champagne is quite possibly the beating heart of the wine world. A stroll down the Avenue de Champagne in Épernay, is like a review of the red carpet of wine. Perrier-Jouet, Moet & Chandon, Pol Roger and so many others escort you to the centre of town and in their houses stand like behemoths facing one another, each at the centre of an intricate web of growers and wine producers.
But it is beyond these massive companies and their branding that one looks for the next great source of excitement in wine. Those lower down on the ladder. Those farmers and their personal wineries which make up most of Champagne's vineyard space are the ones pushing the limits of Champagne consumption beyond the traditional occasions. These so-called 'Grower's Champagnes' are very much akin to the Microbrewery in the beer world. They are largely independent, they pay close attention to detail and their wines are often excellent value. They worry less about their image and more about the product, which must speak for itself in lieu of mass-market advertising.
When you pay for a bottle of Joseph Perrier champagne, which may be about twenty-eight pounds, you are paying for the professionally designed boxes, the research team which maps out product placement, the payment for placement and so on. With such an army of research, management and executive individuals, very little comes down to the actual wine. Compare that to Guy de Chassey, an independent grower situated on 9 hectares near the town of Louvois. Made entirely of Premier Cru and Grand Cru grapes, the basic Champagne is comparable in quality to Pol Roger and Bollinger, and without a doubt superior to many priced well above it's modest price tag of 20 pounds! It is fresh on the nose with plenty of bright fruit, hints, but no more of creamy richness, but lots of cherry and gooseberry, showing great quality from the Pinot Noir used in the blend. That's another thing; Guy de Chassey uses 75% Pinot Noir, generally a more expensive grape, and yet here it is in a high proportion, with great execution and at a lower price. Anyone tasting Guy de Chassey will quickly realise the quality and that branding is non-essential for a great bottle of wine.
The best part of these small growers, is that they are just about endless. An enthusiastic traveller to the region would require years to visit each independent grower and try the wines they have to offer. You could quite feasibly go through a different Champagne each week for over a decade and not taste the same bottle twice. They offer value that makes their enjoyment a relatively affordable experience, so you don't need to wait for an occasion like a birthday or New Year to open a great bottle of Champagne. Now, the great bottle of Champagne can be a regular occasion in itself; one of life's small but regular pleasures. After all, that is how the Champenois live. Just as we might spend 20 pounds on a lovely bottle of wine to treat ourselves and our friends or family to a nice experience, the residents of Champagne will do so with their local wine. Now that more and more growers are finding their way onto the shelves of our wine shops and online merchants, it is becoming more and more possible to enjoy a beautiful bottle of Champagne without spending more than 20 pounds (or a bit more for a really cracking bottle!) for a priceless experience.
Of the small proportion of growers represented on the UK market, some of them can be presented as an alternative to a more famous and more expensive house. For example, Le Mesnil shares vineyards with the formidable Krug, Veuve Fourny also bears similarities to the same. Pierre Peters reminds me of Pol Roger and Chassey has something of Bollinger's power behind it. Another point is that the independent growers of Champagne still offer great value compared with comparable wines from English producers and until we see such good value low cost English bubbly on the market, they are a great value.
Sure, there is something to be said for the fact that they can be hard to find consistently. One week it may be tough to get a hold of the Chassey or the Le Mesnil, but then the drinker can go for something different. When it comes to great wine, why not seek out new experiences? Change is the spice of life and just as craft beer drinkers seek out beers they've never had, perhaps Champagne drinkers should do the same and try as many different producers as they can rather than sticking to one for life. I know many wine drinkers who have placed themselves in a camp and stayed there. Whether you're a Bollinger guy who always liked James Bond and anything James Bond likes, or Ace of Spades because you'll do whatever Jay-Z says, you may actually find yourself gaining more pleasure in the drinking experience if you ditch the big names and spring for the independents. Its like the difference between Tesco and the local butcher. Which one will care more about your enjoyment?
Champagne is a great wine. While there are good, bad and middling Champagnes out there, the style and the region is undoubtedly one of the world's finest, with a strong claim to the top spot. It is not often that an established and reliable institution comes along and presents the world with a whole new bag of tricks and says, "Oh by the way, I also have all this fun stuff!" so I think we can call ourselves lucky to have a bevy of novel Champagnes to look forward to.
One last thing; these growers are not new. Some are centuries old, and their heritage goes back well beyond the currently fashionable big brands. They have been growing the grapes for ages while the Négociants have been taking the credit. There are two little letters on each bottle of Champagne that can tell you whether the producer bought in grapes and ready-made wine or grew their own grapes and made their own stuff. 'RM' for Recoltant Manipulant and 'NM' for Négociant Manipulant. Time to give the Récoltant his credit where credit is due!
Much Love,
G
We are currently experiencing an explosive boom in the beer industry and thousands of small scale, independent microbreweries are cropping up everywhere in the UK from St. Austell's to St. Andrews, making for a very exciting time to be a beer drinker. When was the last time we saw such a revolutionary expansion in the wine world? When Australia broke onto the scene? When the Californians won the 1976 Paris Tasting? Believe it or not, a revolution is now upon us. All we have to do is look beyond the labels of some of the most resonant names in the wine world. Thereby we may be shocked by the potential excitement being generated by what may be the world's most familiar yet beguiling wine region, if we only let it enthral us as much as it should.
Several hours northwest of Paris, situated in and around the towns of Épernay, Bouzy, Dizy and Cumières, there is the historic and magnificent region of Champagne. With grand, palatial mansions and some of the most beautiful vineyard vistas you could imagine, Champagne is quite possibly the beating heart of the wine world. A stroll down the Avenue de Champagne in Épernay, is like a review of the red carpet of wine. Perrier-Jouet, Moet & Chandon, Pol Roger and so many others escort you to the centre of town and in their houses stand like behemoths facing one another, each at the centre of an intricate web of growers and wine producers.
But it is beyond these massive companies and their branding that one looks for the next great source of excitement in wine. Those lower down on the ladder. Those farmers and their personal wineries which make up most of Champagne's vineyard space are the ones pushing the limits of Champagne consumption beyond the traditional occasions. These so-called 'Grower's Champagnes' are very much akin to the Microbrewery in the beer world. They are largely independent, they pay close attention to detail and their wines are often excellent value. They worry less about their image and more about the product, which must speak for itself in lieu of mass-market advertising.
When you pay for a bottle of Joseph Perrier champagne, which may be about twenty-eight pounds, you are paying for the professionally designed boxes, the research team which maps out product placement, the payment for placement and so on. With such an army of research, management and executive individuals, very little comes down to the actual wine. Compare that to Guy de Chassey, an independent grower situated on 9 hectares near the town of Louvois. Made entirely of Premier Cru and Grand Cru grapes, the basic Champagne is comparable in quality to Pol Roger and Bollinger, and without a doubt superior to many priced well above it's modest price tag of 20 pounds! It is fresh on the nose with plenty of bright fruit, hints, but no more of creamy richness, but lots of cherry and gooseberry, showing great quality from the Pinot Noir used in the blend. That's another thing; Guy de Chassey uses 75% Pinot Noir, generally a more expensive grape, and yet here it is in a high proportion, with great execution and at a lower price. Anyone tasting Guy de Chassey will quickly realise the quality and that branding is non-essential for a great bottle of wine.
The best part of these small growers, is that they are just about endless. An enthusiastic traveller to the region would require years to visit each independent grower and try the wines they have to offer. You could quite feasibly go through a different Champagne each week for over a decade and not taste the same bottle twice. They offer value that makes their enjoyment a relatively affordable experience, so you don't need to wait for an occasion like a birthday or New Year to open a great bottle of Champagne. Now, the great bottle of Champagne can be a regular occasion in itself; one of life's small but regular pleasures. After all, that is how the Champenois live. Just as we might spend 20 pounds on a lovely bottle of wine to treat ourselves and our friends or family to a nice experience, the residents of Champagne will do so with their local wine. Now that more and more growers are finding their way onto the shelves of our wine shops and online merchants, it is becoming more and more possible to enjoy a beautiful bottle of Champagne without spending more than 20 pounds (or a bit more for a really cracking bottle!) for a priceless experience.
Of the small proportion of growers represented on the UK market, some of them can be presented as an alternative to a more famous and more expensive house. For example, Le Mesnil shares vineyards with the formidable Krug, Veuve Fourny also bears similarities to the same. Pierre Peters reminds me of Pol Roger and Chassey has something of Bollinger's power behind it. Another point is that the independent growers of Champagne still offer great value compared with comparable wines from English producers and until we see such good value low cost English bubbly on the market, they are a great value.
Sure, there is something to be said for the fact that they can be hard to find consistently. One week it may be tough to get a hold of the Chassey or the Le Mesnil, but then the drinker can go for something different. When it comes to great wine, why not seek out new experiences? Change is the spice of life and just as craft beer drinkers seek out beers they've never had, perhaps Champagne drinkers should do the same and try as many different producers as they can rather than sticking to one for life. I know many wine drinkers who have placed themselves in a camp and stayed there. Whether you're a Bollinger guy who always liked James Bond and anything James Bond likes, or Ace of Spades because you'll do whatever Jay-Z says, you may actually find yourself gaining more pleasure in the drinking experience if you ditch the big names and spring for the independents. Its like the difference between Tesco and the local butcher. Which one will care more about your enjoyment?
Champagne is a great wine. While there are good, bad and middling Champagnes out there, the style and the region is undoubtedly one of the world's finest, with a strong claim to the top spot. It is not often that an established and reliable institution comes along and presents the world with a whole new bag of tricks and says, "Oh by the way, I also have all this fun stuff!" so I think we can call ourselves lucky to have a bevy of novel Champagnes to look forward to.
One last thing; these growers are not new. Some are centuries old, and their heritage goes back well beyond the currently fashionable big brands. They have been growing the grapes for ages while the Négociants have been taking the credit. There are two little letters on each bottle of Champagne that can tell you whether the producer bought in grapes and ready-made wine or grew their own grapes and made their own stuff. 'RM' for Recoltant Manipulant and 'NM' for Négociant Manipulant. Time to give the Récoltant his credit where credit is due!
Much Love,
G
Saturday, August 11, 2012
Growers Champagne- Philippe Martin Cuvée Spéciale
Hey Everyone,
Today I'm trying a bottle of champagne from what one might call an obscure producer. Philippe Martin, a small grower in the hills outside of Bouzy, produces a range of wines from premier cru vineyards around the village of Cumières, from a basic cuvée on up to a vintage blanc des blancs as well as an interesting Cumières Rouge. The Champagnes from the range tended to be overly acidic and brashly lemon flavoured, but I was pleased with the Cuvée Spéciale, so I decided to bring a bottle home.
The wine poured in quite a lively manner. While I'm usually quite good at opening a bottle of champagne without the cork popping too loudly, but this one went off the second I twisted the the cork. The bubbles filled the glass with even the most careful of pouring, but once it calmed down, the wine itself seemed somewhat neutral in the glass. The nose is mostly defined by sweet apple pulp, with hints of pear drops and lemon drops. The palate is quite full on with the acid dominating and the bubbles disappearing almost as soon as the wine is poured.
Even so, as far as Champagnes go, Philippe Martin is a nice, affordable and easy to drink wine. A colleague refered to it, appropriately I think, as a session Champagne. True enough, if I were hosting a party or meal, I'd be happy to buy a few bottles of this to serve around, especially for the price tag. I paid 10 euros for this bottle cellar door and, though it would likely sell in Britain for about 20 pounds, I think that it is indeed worth the money. Especially compared to other Champagnes available in that price range, such as the Forget-Brimont or the Jacquart, it is a perfectly respectable wine.
I think it even throws a few punches above its weight. Discussing with another colleague, we decided that Joseph Perrier offers little, if anything more and comes with a much higher price tag. Figure in branding and packaging and the wine is about the same quality but with a higher price. If we consider the Philippe Martin as a 20 pound Champagne, then the only wines around that price I'd go for instead would be something like Delamotte and Guy de Chassey.
I hope that this wine and others like it become more readily available in Britain, and with such low prices, I see no reason why they should not. Imagine a world in which our default choice for Champagne was a small production grower's wine that changed each week! What a wonderful world it would be. Then we'd be drinking like the champenois!
Much Love,
G
Today I'm trying a bottle of champagne from what one might call an obscure producer. Philippe Martin, a small grower in the hills outside of Bouzy, produces a range of wines from premier cru vineyards around the village of Cumières, from a basic cuvée on up to a vintage blanc des blancs as well as an interesting Cumières Rouge. The Champagnes from the range tended to be overly acidic and brashly lemon flavoured, but I was pleased with the Cuvée Spéciale, so I decided to bring a bottle home.
The wine poured in quite a lively manner. While I'm usually quite good at opening a bottle of champagne without the cork popping too loudly, but this one went off the second I twisted the the cork. The bubbles filled the glass with even the most careful of pouring, but once it calmed down, the wine itself seemed somewhat neutral in the glass. The nose is mostly defined by sweet apple pulp, with hints of pear drops and lemon drops. The palate is quite full on with the acid dominating and the bubbles disappearing almost as soon as the wine is poured.
Even so, as far as Champagnes go, Philippe Martin is a nice, affordable and easy to drink wine. A colleague refered to it, appropriately I think, as a session Champagne. True enough, if I were hosting a party or meal, I'd be happy to buy a few bottles of this to serve around, especially for the price tag. I paid 10 euros for this bottle cellar door and, though it would likely sell in Britain for about 20 pounds, I think that it is indeed worth the money. Especially compared to other Champagnes available in that price range, such as the Forget-Brimont or the Jacquart, it is a perfectly respectable wine.
I think it even throws a few punches above its weight. Discussing with another colleague, we decided that Joseph Perrier offers little, if anything more and comes with a much higher price tag. Figure in branding and packaging and the wine is about the same quality but with a higher price. If we consider the Philippe Martin as a 20 pound Champagne, then the only wines around that price I'd go for instead would be something like Delamotte and Guy de Chassey.
I hope that this wine and others like it become more readily available in Britain, and with such low prices, I see no reason why they should not. Imagine a world in which our default choice for Champagne was a small production grower's wine that changed each week! What a wonderful world it would be. Then we'd be drinking like the champenois!
Much Love,
G
Friday, August 10, 2012
Classic Merlot! Thelema Mountain Vineyards Merlot 2009
Hey Everyone,
Today's wine to try is, in my opinion, an excellent bottle of one of my favourite grapes. Despite the bad press given to Merlot, I believe that it can produce some of the most delightful wines on the market. What is best about Merlot is that it does not have to be expensive to be good, but there are a few examples of world class Merlot that deserve a tip of the hat.
Just a bit of background, Merlot is the principal grape in some of the most important wines in the world, and when vinified to it's full potential, it produces the tannin and acidity needed for long ageing. Important wineries, including Le Pin, Cheval Blanc (where it is heavily blended with Cabernet Franc) and Petrus make the finest examples of Merlot and the best vintages can fetch astronomical prices.
Tonight's bottle is a Merlot from South Africa, in particular from the Stellenbosch region which produces a great proportion of South Africa's best wines. As one of my earlier posts on South Africa's wine industry makes clear, I firmly believe that this remote wine producing nation is very much an old soul in the new world. This Merlot, with its characteristics of the terroir and tannin, is very much an old world style of wine.
The wine is deep in colour with an opaque colouring. Three years on from vintage, you would expect a new world Merlot to fade a little bit, but this one is really quite inky in colour. The glass, as I swirl, is coated with thick, slow running legs, hinting at the high alcohol levels inherent in the wine.
The nose, after a bit of breathing is full of all kinds of wonderful things essential to a good Merlot. There is black berry, rasberry, hints of brambe and cassis, all proped up by rich roasted coffee and dark chocolate. There is a chalky element coming through which I believe hints at the soil of the vineyards, indicating that this wine was made with the intention that it reflect it's sense of place in the fashion of an old world wine maker.
The palate is rich and velvety with few flaws. The tannins are big and pleasing, with a chunkiness that I desire from a full-bodied wine. There are bitter elements reminiscent of the feeling left in the mouth after swallowing some 85% dark chocolate. If anything, the mineral could be more pronounced and the tannin a bit more forward. Basically, I feel that this wine has the markings of a very skilled winemaker who may be holding back for his more premium labels.
I would be very interested to try a more special Thelema bottling. I would be looking for a more bold style, with bigger tannins, more forward acidity, a greater emphasis on the terroir and overall a more Bordelais style. I feel that is what Thelema wants to produce.
All in all, I loved today's wine. I think that, as a daily drinking wine, it is a cracking bottle and for the price of just over fifteen pounds, it is a great value bottle. For those looking for a silky, chocolatey merlot executed with an esteem for class and the goal of producing an elegant Merlot, this is the bottle!
Much Love,
G
Today's wine to try is, in my opinion, an excellent bottle of one of my favourite grapes. Despite the bad press given to Merlot, I believe that it can produce some of the most delightful wines on the market. What is best about Merlot is that it does not have to be expensive to be good, but there are a few examples of world class Merlot that deserve a tip of the hat.
Just a bit of background, Merlot is the principal grape in some of the most important wines in the world, and when vinified to it's full potential, it produces the tannin and acidity needed for long ageing. Important wineries, including Le Pin, Cheval Blanc (where it is heavily blended with Cabernet Franc) and Petrus make the finest examples of Merlot and the best vintages can fetch astronomical prices.
Tonight's bottle is a Merlot from South Africa, in particular from the Stellenbosch region which produces a great proportion of South Africa's best wines. As one of my earlier posts on South Africa's wine industry makes clear, I firmly believe that this remote wine producing nation is very much an old soul in the new world. This Merlot, with its characteristics of the terroir and tannin, is very much an old world style of wine.
The wine is deep in colour with an opaque colouring. Three years on from vintage, you would expect a new world Merlot to fade a little bit, but this one is really quite inky in colour. The glass, as I swirl, is coated with thick, slow running legs, hinting at the high alcohol levels inherent in the wine.
The nose, after a bit of breathing is full of all kinds of wonderful things essential to a good Merlot. There is black berry, rasberry, hints of brambe and cassis, all proped up by rich roasted coffee and dark chocolate. There is a chalky element coming through which I believe hints at the soil of the vineyards, indicating that this wine was made with the intention that it reflect it's sense of place in the fashion of an old world wine maker.
The palate is rich and velvety with few flaws. The tannins are big and pleasing, with a chunkiness that I desire from a full-bodied wine. There are bitter elements reminiscent of the feeling left in the mouth after swallowing some 85% dark chocolate. If anything, the mineral could be more pronounced and the tannin a bit more forward. Basically, I feel that this wine has the markings of a very skilled winemaker who may be holding back for his more premium labels.
I would be very interested to try a more special Thelema bottling. I would be looking for a more bold style, with bigger tannins, more forward acidity, a greater emphasis on the terroir and overall a more Bordelais style. I feel that is what Thelema wants to produce.
All in all, I loved today's wine. I think that, as a daily drinking wine, it is a cracking bottle and for the price of just over fifteen pounds, it is a great value bottle. For those looking for a silky, chocolatey merlot executed with an esteem for class and the goal of producing an elegant Merlot, this is the bottle!
Much Love,
G
Thursday, August 9, 2012
Cline- Mourvédre
Hey Everyone,
Today's wine to try is a lovely, friendly take on the Mourvédre grape from California's Contra Costa County. Produced by the consistent wine-makers at Cline, this Mourvédre is a nice bottle of wine and a good example of an all-too rare grape variety, which has excellent potential in the dynamic climates of California. A very thick skinned grape and potentially highly tannic and age-worthy, this has been made in a more friendly, fruit forward style, even more so than the Bandolier, which I reviewed last week.
The wine is deep in colour but not entirely opaque as I have seen with other wines made of this grape variety, indicating that it has spent less time macerating (the process by which colour and tannin is extracted from the skins into the juice) than the Bandolier or more serious Mourvédre wines.
That said, the aromas are quite forward in style. Big notes of juicy black berries, stewed prunes and plums come forward with little hints of spice here and there. Not as herbal as some French mourvédres I've had but the mroe the wine breathes, the more I convince myself that there is some thyme and possibly even a hint of green pepper in there. In fact, given this wine blind, I am certain I would be likely to mistake it for a standard Californian Zinfandel.
True to it's zinfandel-like form, the palate is super juicy and jammy, with flavours of ribena and creme de cassis covering the tongue. Though I am beginning to feel that this wine is a bit superfluous (why pay twenty-odd quid for a wine that is basically serving the same purpose as a typical Zinfandel?) I do have to give credit where it is due, it is well executed and carries it's 15% alcohol level with considerable grace. The tannins are moderate and the body medium to heavy with a nice fruity profile while the wine as a whole is well balanced and easily enjoyable.
If you like your nice juicy wines, and want to try something a little different from the standard Zin, this Mourvédre is a very pleasing bottle from an established producer in California and is definitely worth considering.
Much Love,
G
Today's wine to try is a lovely, friendly take on the Mourvédre grape from California's Contra Costa County. Produced by the consistent wine-makers at Cline, this Mourvédre is a nice bottle of wine and a good example of an all-too rare grape variety, which has excellent potential in the dynamic climates of California. A very thick skinned grape and potentially highly tannic and age-worthy, this has been made in a more friendly, fruit forward style, even more so than the Bandolier, which I reviewed last week.
The wine is deep in colour but not entirely opaque as I have seen with other wines made of this grape variety, indicating that it has spent less time macerating (the process by which colour and tannin is extracted from the skins into the juice) than the Bandolier or more serious Mourvédre wines.
That said, the aromas are quite forward in style. Big notes of juicy black berries, stewed prunes and plums come forward with little hints of spice here and there. Not as herbal as some French mourvédres I've had but the mroe the wine breathes, the more I convince myself that there is some thyme and possibly even a hint of green pepper in there. In fact, given this wine blind, I am certain I would be likely to mistake it for a standard Californian Zinfandel.
True to it's zinfandel-like form, the palate is super juicy and jammy, with flavours of ribena and creme de cassis covering the tongue. Though I am beginning to feel that this wine is a bit superfluous (why pay twenty-odd quid for a wine that is basically serving the same purpose as a typical Zinfandel?) I do have to give credit where it is due, it is well executed and carries it's 15% alcohol level with considerable grace. The tannins are moderate and the body medium to heavy with a nice fruity profile while the wine as a whole is well balanced and easily enjoyable.
If you like your nice juicy wines, and want to try something a little different from the standard Zin, this Mourvédre is a very pleasing bottle from an established producer in California and is definitely worth considering.
Much Love,
G
Thursday, August 2, 2012
Not just Grüner Veltliner- Austria
Hey Everyone,
Austria is one of those countries which, like Germany and Hungary, is too often pigeon-holed as a one-trick pony by the consumer, but this is far from the truth. Germany has some lovely Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc, and Hungary does damn good dry wines as well as the world-famous Tokaji Aszú. Austria is in a similar caste. Known by and large for it's excellence in producing zesty, minerally Grüner Veltliner, Austrian wines become exponentially more popular when the summer months come along, but there is much more indeed to this central European nation's selection of wine.
One of my favourite things about Austria is that it is very keen on cultivating it's own grape varieties and maintaining traditional style. Unlike Bulgaria, which has made a name for itself by producing wines based on French and other international varieties, Austria has based it's reputation on it's own, endemic grapes. Reds like Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch can make for very appealing, full bodied wines with pungent aromas and a classic hint of slate-like minerality.
I recently tried a trio of tasty Austrian wines, none of them being Grüner and none relying on international grape varieties.
The first was a 100% Zweigelt, which was at first restrained and a bit backward, but after a bit of time breathing, it became quite rich. With a nose bearing aromas of black cherry, a bit of a sour cherry flavour to follow and an over all balanced and fruity style, the Zweigelt is a perfectly fine, easy drinking and food-friendly red. With a moderate price tag, much like the average Grüner, its definitely a wine worth considering.
The second, an interesting three grape blend, was the only one with any international varieties involved, being a hint of Cabernet blended in with both Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. It had a nice complexity to it, with an enticing nose of eucalyptus, mint and pencil lead, alongside hints of cedar wood, tobacco and river stones. The palate was nice and tannic with balancing acidity and although the finish was a wee bit off, I enjoyed my glass thoroughly, and hope that such examples of Austrian wine become more common on our shelves.
The third and final wine was undoubtedly the wine of the three. A beautifully sweet and richly fragranced Beerenauslese made entirely not from Riesling as is usual, but from the native Austrian Samling variety. It lacks the searing acidity of Riesling, so it doesn't have the penetrating acidity of it's German counterparts, but it shows a beautiful nose laden with elderflowers, orange blossoms and citrus peal. I enjoyed this wine and found it very approachable and satisfying. Even though it did not measure up with Beerenauslese I have had made from Riesling, the fact that the producer was willing to use Samling instead of the more recogniseable Riesling grape counts for a lot in my book. A very nice wine indeed and a style that should be sought out!
Overall, I was impressed by Austria's native grapes. The variety and class of the wines, even the cheaper Zweigelt was really something to consider, and I am definitely a fan of these wines and am curious to try more.
Have a look at some interesting Austrian wines if you have the chance and maybe try something a bit out of the ordinary...
Much Love,
G
Austria is one of those countries which, like Germany and Hungary, is too often pigeon-holed as a one-trick pony by the consumer, but this is far from the truth. Germany has some lovely Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc, and Hungary does damn good dry wines as well as the world-famous Tokaji Aszú. Austria is in a similar caste. Known by and large for it's excellence in producing zesty, minerally Grüner Veltliner, Austrian wines become exponentially more popular when the summer months come along, but there is much more indeed to this central European nation's selection of wine.
One of my favourite things about Austria is that it is very keen on cultivating it's own grape varieties and maintaining traditional style. Unlike Bulgaria, which has made a name for itself by producing wines based on French and other international varieties, Austria has based it's reputation on it's own, endemic grapes. Reds like Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch can make for very appealing, full bodied wines with pungent aromas and a classic hint of slate-like minerality.
I recently tried a trio of tasty Austrian wines, none of them being Grüner and none relying on international grape varieties.
The first was a 100% Zweigelt, which was at first restrained and a bit backward, but after a bit of time breathing, it became quite rich. With a nose bearing aromas of black cherry, a bit of a sour cherry flavour to follow and an over all balanced and fruity style, the Zweigelt is a perfectly fine, easy drinking and food-friendly red. With a moderate price tag, much like the average Grüner, its definitely a wine worth considering.
The second, an interesting three grape blend, was the only one with any international varieties involved, being a hint of Cabernet blended in with both Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. It had a nice complexity to it, with an enticing nose of eucalyptus, mint and pencil lead, alongside hints of cedar wood, tobacco and river stones. The palate was nice and tannic with balancing acidity and although the finish was a wee bit off, I enjoyed my glass thoroughly, and hope that such examples of Austrian wine become more common on our shelves.
The third and final wine was undoubtedly the wine of the three. A beautifully sweet and richly fragranced Beerenauslese made entirely not from Riesling as is usual, but from the native Austrian Samling variety. It lacks the searing acidity of Riesling, so it doesn't have the penetrating acidity of it's German counterparts, but it shows a beautiful nose laden with elderflowers, orange blossoms and citrus peal. I enjoyed this wine and found it very approachable and satisfying. Even though it did not measure up with Beerenauslese I have had made from Riesling, the fact that the producer was willing to use Samling instead of the more recogniseable Riesling grape counts for a lot in my book. A very nice wine indeed and a style that should be sought out!
Overall, I was impressed by Austria's native grapes. The variety and class of the wines, even the cheaper Zweigelt was really something to consider, and I am definitely a fan of these wines and am curious to try more.
Have a look at some interesting Austrian wines if you have the chance and maybe try something a bit out of the ordinary...
Much Love,
G
Monday, March 26, 2012
Hermanuspietersfontein Swartskaap
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| Swartskaap; Afrikaans for Black Sheep |
Hey Everyone,
Despite the nearly incomprehensible name, this wine is beautiful stuff. I am a huge fan of South African wine in general and when winemakers embrace the fact that they are perfectly suited to such complex wines and grape varieties, I think they can truly achieve a great deal. Today's wine, the 'Swartskaap' 2008 by Hermanuspietersfontein, is a solid example of a %100 Cabernet Franc. So many great wines these days are being made from this grape, which rarely gets the spotlight (though when it does, it performs wonderfully!) and often they are well priced.
This wine is superbly vegetal with lots of green bell pepper supported by dark cherries and a bit of strawberry with a touch of thyme and rosemary sprinkled in for a herbal balance. On the palate it isn't too tannic and has a nice lingering acidic finish with a near perfect balance. If anything it could be a bit more fruit forward and let the vegetal character be less prevalent. Other than that, I am certainly pleasantly surprised by the fullness of character and the complexity.
I had this wine with some braised herb-crusted pork loin, and I am afraid it didn't quite work together, but had I gone for a pork accompanied by some berries or some other such style, I am confident that this Cabernet would have worked nicely. Of course, the ideal pairing would have been a rack of lamb with a mustard and breadcrumb crust, as I am sure the acidity of this wine would take on the fatty texture of the lamb and the herbal notes would compliment the sweet meat flavours. I also this a good roast duck would be splendid stuff with such a great example of Cabernet Franc.
It sells for about £17 so it's not a badly priced bottle for a really complex and intriguing wine. It is yet another example of just how interesting South Africa's wine makers can be when they set their minds to being so adventurous. %100 Cabernet Franc is certainly adventurous, without any supporting grapes for fruitiness, and to pull it all off with such class, it is clear that Hermanuspietersfontein has a skillful winemaker at work!
Much Love,
G
Thanks again to Flickinger Photography for the help with the photo! www.flickingerphotography.com
Monday, March 19, 2012
Work of Time- Springfield
Hey Everyone,
Today's wine to try is an interesting concept. A well known estate in South Africa's Robertson region, namely Springfield Estate, has made an attempt at a Bordeaux-style red blend. While I believe wholeheartedly that South Africa is in many ways an old soul when it comes to wine-making (for my post of South Africa click here), this winery has largely been a new-world operation in my book, producing fruity, forthcoming reds and crisp whites. That said, I really enjoy all of their wines and think that they are indeed a class-act when it comes to the wines they produce, and I was intrigued at this years Bibendum tasting in London when I saw a more recent addition to their range.
The wine is known by the somewhat over-grand sobriquet, "the Work of Time," written in a sort of pseudo-seventeen-hundreds script on the label. It is a Bordeaux style blend, but the wine-makers have done something rather interesting here by leading with Bordeaux's third wheel grape, Cabernet Franc. Generally, I am a huge fan of anything made from Cabernet Franc, from the reds of the Loire, to Pulenta's Gran Cabernet Franc. It is a herbal, complex and satisfying variety which I hope to see more of in the future. The assemblage is further comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and a dash of Petit Verdot.
A long time (2 years) aging in barrels after a long period of maceration (that's the time when the juice is left on the crushed skins to allow colour and flavour extraction) show a lot of thought went into producing this wine. Obviously it is the result of a confident wine-maker looking to produce something a bit more interesting that his standard range. One thing that I am always impressed by with this estate, is that it is determined to use the natural yeast which develops on the grapes rather than adding cultured yeast to encourage more controlled fermentation. I think that is an adventurous thing to do, and in this wine, I am glad it was done so.
The wine itself shows a deep colour despite nearly 8 years gone since the vintage, though the edge is developing an attractive brick-red colour. It is quite viscous in texture, and is really very appealing in the glass. The nose is very oaky and rich. Lots of vanilla, clove and other spices as well as stewed blackberries and jammy currants. There's a tad of eucalyptus, which is classic to South Africa's red wines. On the palate, there is a heap of vanilla and black fruits, alongside some moderate tannins. It's definitely at it's peak now as the herbal notes are light but tasteful and the acidity is mellow but still fresh enough to hold it all together.
In general it's a tasty wine and an estimable product from the wine-maker which I imagine would go wonderfully with a lamb casserole and a nice bit of mature cheddar cheese. I hope you get the chance to give this one a go, it'd sure be a crowd pleaser if you're having folks over for dinner, are needing a gift for someone or just plain old want a good bottle of wine for you an a friend for a night in.
Much Love,
G
Wine Specs
Today's wine to try is an interesting concept. A well known estate in South Africa's Robertson region, namely Springfield Estate, has made an attempt at a Bordeaux-style red blend. While I believe wholeheartedly that South Africa is in many ways an old soul when it comes to wine-making (for my post of South Africa click here), this winery has largely been a new-world operation in my book, producing fruity, forthcoming reds and crisp whites. That said, I really enjoy all of their wines and think that they are indeed a class-act when it comes to the wines they produce, and I was intrigued at this years Bibendum tasting in London when I saw a more recent addition to their range.
.JPG) |
| Rich and full-flavoured, it has a lot of class. |
The wine is known by the somewhat over-grand sobriquet, "the Work of Time," written in a sort of pseudo-seventeen-hundreds script on the label. It is a Bordeaux style blend, but the wine-makers have done something rather interesting here by leading with Bordeaux's third wheel grape, Cabernet Franc. Generally, I am a huge fan of anything made from Cabernet Franc, from the reds of the Loire, to Pulenta's Gran Cabernet Franc. It is a herbal, complex and satisfying variety which I hope to see more of in the future. The assemblage is further comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and a dash of Petit Verdot.
A long time (2 years) aging in barrels after a long period of maceration (that's the time when the juice is left on the crushed skins to allow colour and flavour extraction) show a lot of thought went into producing this wine. Obviously it is the result of a confident wine-maker looking to produce something a bit more interesting that his standard range. One thing that I am always impressed by with this estate, is that it is determined to use the natural yeast which develops on the grapes rather than adding cultured yeast to encourage more controlled fermentation. I think that is an adventurous thing to do, and in this wine, I am glad it was done so.
The wine itself shows a deep colour despite nearly 8 years gone since the vintage, though the edge is developing an attractive brick-red colour. It is quite viscous in texture, and is really very appealing in the glass. The nose is very oaky and rich. Lots of vanilla, clove and other spices as well as stewed blackberries and jammy currants. There's a tad of eucalyptus, which is classic to South Africa's red wines. On the palate, there is a heap of vanilla and black fruits, alongside some moderate tannins. It's definitely at it's peak now as the herbal notes are light but tasteful and the acidity is mellow but still fresh enough to hold it all together.
In general it's a tasty wine and an estimable product from the wine-maker which I imagine would go wonderfully with a lamb casserole and a nice bit of mature cheddar cheese. I hope you get the chance to give this one a go, it'd sure be a crowd pleaser if you're having folks over for dinner, are needing a gift for someone or just plain old want a good bottle of wine for you an a friend for a night in.
Much Love,
G
Wine Specs
Saturday, February 25, 2012
Try this great Rhône!
Here's a nice wine from right in the middle of the Sweet Spot. Not only is the price great, but it comes from a region loaded with great value wines, the Rhône. Why bother with the immature, or hastily made Bordeaux available under £20 when you can get a real beauty from the Rhône. One of my favourite wines for regular drinking, especially as accompaniment to a nice juicy steak or barbecue, is this 2008 Crozes-Hermitage from Paul Jaboulet-Aîné.A bit of background to the wines of Crozes-Hermitage; they are always made from Syrah (sometimes with a bit of white grapes Marsanne and Rousanne in the blend but I don't think this one has any), and in their youth they have a gorgeous nose of dry roasted black peppercorns. They are usually drunk young as their big brother, Hermitage usually ages more gracefully,but a couple of years brings out some amazing aromas of green olives, brine and sea-breezes. A friend of mine said rock-pools as a tasting note for Crozes-Hermitage and it was definitely a good call.
This wine is super classic Northern Rhône. It has all the big black pepper you could want, but it doesn't dominate. There is a lot of great complexity, with some lovely red currants and black cherries, with those aged aromas of brine, olives and rock pool coming through. There's a bit of a sea breeze coming in as well carrying with it some floral fragrances. Apparently the smell of violets is standard in Rhône Syrah, but as I think about it, I've never properly smelled a violet... What kind of person has never smelled a violet? Seriously!
The palate is toasty and dry with all that pepper hanging around but mingling well with the tannins, acidity, fruit flavours and other spices, making for an elegant example of the Northern Rhône. Pair it with a nice steak, some barbecued pork or some nice slow roasted lamb. All in all, it's a really great food wine, and it can be thought of as another ingredient to the meal, almost like a condiment you put directly in your mouth rather than on the food. Give it a go sometime!
Much love, G
Paul Jaboulet-Aîné
Crozes-Hermitage
2008 Les Jalets
About £14-£15
Monday, February 20, 2012
Rioja- Blind Tasting
This week's wine to try is a bit different; in that it is four wines, tried blind by the St. Andrews Tasting Team. Of course, the purpose of blind tasting is to contemplate the values of a wine without the prejudice brought on by labels, regions or varieties, and pass even judgement based upon your own tastes. Alongside that aim, there is also the element of competition; trying to make a guess at what the wine is and where it comes from, which can make a blind tasting a thrilling experience.
Wines tasted included a 2007 Crianza by Marqués de Vitoria, La Vendimia 2010, a 2008 Crianza from Dinastía Vivanco, and a surprisingly youthful 1996 Gran Reserva, also by Marqués de Vitoria. While I believe all the wines present had their merits, and all were well made, the star of the four seemed to be the cheapest; the 2008 Dinastía Vivanco. It was oaky, fruity with a bit of spice and some rich, but soft tannins.
It was acidic enough to match with a rich meat dish, like a lamb steak or game, but also so pleasant I would happily drink it on its own. Some of the other wines were not so fruity and friendly as this one, but with the exception of the first 2007 Crianza, all were enjoyable.
The Vendimia didn't hold up too well after having been open for very long; it became acidic and lost its fruity vibrancy, whereas the oldest of the four was surprisingly punchy with its fruit and had an overall balanced and pleasing character.
I think Rioja, while a spotty source for wines, is capable of producing wines of great value and character and the Dinastía Vivanco, despite it's slightly gimmicky bottle shape, is a testament to that potential. At a mere £10 per bottle, its a classic, young, spicy Rioja displaying plenty of those tried and true Tempranillo characteristics. It is oaky, but not overly so, and is just ever so pleasing.
Other wines to check out from Rioja will definitely include the 2005 Banda Roja and Banda Azul by Monte Haro, 2005 Viña Cubillo by R. Lopez, the 2001 Viña Tondonia for those looking to splash out a bit, and the Tondonia Rosé.
Hasta Luego,
George
Wines tasted included a 2007 Crianza by Marqués de Vitoria, La Vendimia 2010, a 2008 Crianza from Dinastía Vivanco, and a surprisingly youthful 1996 Gran Reserva, also by Marqués de Vitoria. While I believe all the wines present had their merits, and all were well made, the star of the four seemed to be the cheapest; the 2008 Dinastía Vivanco. It was oaky, fruity with a bit of spice and some rich, but soft tannins. It was acidic enough to match with a rich meat dish, like a lamb steak or game, but also so pleasant I would happily drink it on its own. Some of the other wines were not so fruity and friendly as this one, but with the exception of the first 2007 Crianza, all were enjoyable.
I think Rioja, while a spotty source for wines, is capable of producing wines of great value and character and the Dinastía Vivanco, despite it's slightly gimmicky bottle shape, is a testament to that potential. At a mere £10 per bottle, its a classic, young, spicy Rioja displaying plenty of those tried and true Tempranillo characteristics. It is oaky, but not overly so, and is just ever so pleasing.
Other wines to check out from Rioja will definitely include the 2005 Banda Roja and Banda Azul by Monte Haro, 2005 Viña Cubillo by R. Lopez, the 2001 Viña Tondonia for those looking to splash out a bit, and the Tondonia Rosé.
Hasta Luego,
George
Friday, February 10, 2012
Oddero Barbera d'Alba 2008 Old notes!
I owe this post to my brother, along with much of my best wine experiences, as he chose this wine from his shop in Tribeca NYC. Thanks Ben!
Today's tasting comes after a delightful week on holiday away form wine tasting. That is not to say that I have been idle in any way; quite the contrary, in fact. Being at home with my parents in the United States has afforded me the opportunity to try some incredible wines which are rare and difficult to find in the UK, and I have enjoyed this experience thoroughly. Hopefully this is not the condition for too long, as I should like to encounter Jarvis and Cakebread on a much more frequent basis. I have, however, encountered some fantastic italians as well. This post concerns one beautiful Barbera tasted amidst the storm of the year in the wild mountains of Pennsylvania.
From an enticing price range, which I call the 'sweet spot' (£15-20), where fine wine can be found at good prices, this beautiful example of a Barbera is one my brother brought to my attention form his wine shop in New York City. It certainly tickles my fancy for the classic Italian wine.
It is lovely and clear and the tears run down the glass to compliment the pale colour of this elegantly coloured wine. The aromas are of ripe red cherry with hints of flowers and a bit of Earl Grey Tea. It is surely fruity, but not unsubtle. It has that tinge of rusticity which I so crave in Italian wine and with it comes a delightful spice. The nose, however isn't overwhelming. Overall, it is pensive, persistent and intriguing.
The promises made by the nose are kept on the palate as those perfumed aromas become delicate fruit flavours of sour cherry and bergamot. If I were somewhat older (my dad loves the stuff), I'd say this wine has a somewhat Campari-like characteristic. Fortunately, unlike Campari, the finish is delighfully floral, gently tannic and just acidic enough to pair with the sensual Piemontese cuisine with which these grapes grew.
I am pleased to say that this classic wine checks all the boxes for me and gains all the appropriate marks. It is friendly and lively whilst retaining something of its modesty and intrigue. The cool-ish climate of La Morra is shown by these delicate fragrances and elegant flavours, exemplifying the virtues of Barbera. In this respect, this wine is a delight amongst Italian wine-making; a delicious drop in a vast sea.
I must, of course, give some context to the situation in which this wine was tasted. I was on holiday. With my loving family. My equally wine-loving brother. 15 of 29 first cousins and a Cat 4 Hurricane lashing our windows leaving us powerless for 3 days. Do you know what 3 days without power does to young children these days? They are stunningly bored! Indeed, t'was a unique scenario for a wine tasting. With all that family round, however, I can think of no better place for a welcome, warming glass of Barbera to warm the spirit. Overall, it was a welcome addition to a candle-lit meal with my beloved family.
Heres to family!
G
Chianti Rufina 2007 Fattoria Lavacchio
Sometimes it can be difficult to find a good value bottle of wine from one of those regions with a popular name. In the past few months, though, I discovered if any region is a good value considering its connotations as one of the worlds most famous wine regions, it is Chianti. Over the course of this past year, during which I made a concerted effort to improve my cooking. As a food-friendly wine, I found an old reliable of sorts in a particular bottle of Chianti Rufina.At just under £10 it's a bargain to be sure, and never fails to please. Completely composed of Sangiovese grapes, made in a classic style this wine is polite, still fruity and overall friendly. Is rusticity is true to it's humble origins, but it celebrates these countryside elements with a bouquet of wild flowers, berries and just a hint of spice. It's texture is dusty as the marl and chalk soil from which this wine comes.
With engaging flavours, it is simple enough to wash down a mouthful of pasta, but enjoyable enough to merit a few thoughtful sips to appreciate its more complex floral elements. The palate is predominantly red berry, some sour cherry, which reminds me a bit of Belgian fruit beers, but overall it is laced up with gentle tannins, and elements of rose water.
Overall, this wine is worth more than one visit, and with a moderate price tag of £9.99, it can be a slight upgrade from a student's standard regimen to bring to a dinner party, or just for a great bottle on a not so big budget.
Enjoy everyone! G
Thursday, February 9, 2012
Chateau Musar 2001
Chateau Musar 2001
Few wine producers founded in the modern era can claim to have witnessed as many world-changing events as the famous Château Musar in Lebanon's Beka'a Valley. Perilously close to the tumultuous border with Syria, Musar has quite literally seen the front lines of some of the world's most heart breaking conflicts. Proprietor Gaston Hochar deserves the highest esteem for refusing to slake his production throughout multiple regional wars, meanwhile maintaining his standards of high quality and unique style. That said, Musar, has a reptutation for streaky vintages, with some underwhelming wines for the reputation held by the château. Let us see how this ten-year-old vintage performs...
Country of Origin: Lebanon
Region: Beka'a valley
Varieties: Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Syrah
Price range: £20-25
Biodynamic/ Organic
Appearance: Time resting in bottle has done some lovely things to the colour of this wine. I am a highly visual taster, and often I fear that my tastes are overly influenced by the appearance of the wine in the glass, but this is a beautiful brick red, showing a thorough aging process over the ten years since vintage. It isn't terribly clear, somewhat reminiscent of a young Burgundy but with a slight orange tinge.
Nose: Great aromatics to be sure, dark cherries and a dusty black currant showing the quality of the Cabernet here. I've heard rumours that Gaston Hochar pulled a rather cavalier move in taking some Cabernet cuttings from Château Lafite-Rothschild, and if that's so, it's interesting to see how that affects this Cinsault-dominated blend. A bit of pencil lead, which leads me to think that the Cinsault is definitely being overwhelmed by the Cabernet and a hint of brine shows the character of the aged Syrah. Over all, a unique and complex nose, worth a long consideration. Beautiful so far!
Palate: Despite the age on this fellow, the tannins were quite grippy upon first opening the bottle, again showing the strength of the Cabernet, but they have mellowed out quite a lot giving a chance for the delicate Carignan and Cinsault to show through on the palate. A hint of flowers and dusty earth add a lovely complexity to this glass of fine wine.
Overall: Some have ventured the timeless error of comparing this wine to the classic regions of Burgundy and Bordeaux, for it's elegance and it's grip respectively. This is completely beside the point of Musar. It is unique stuff with a character of it's own. Definitely worth consideration as a serious fine wine for a great value. Check your vintages and get a good one and hold onto it at least ten years! It will reward your patience, especially when it takes part in a mouthful of good spiced roast lamb.
Definitely give it a try!
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