Hey Everyone,
Today I'm trying a lovely bottle of Priorat; a wine from Spain's northeast. Situated in the Catalonian countryside several hours west of Barcelona, Priorat is one of the great treasures of Spanish winemaking. Though it is apparently condemned to be forever overshadowed by Penedes locally (the home of Cava production) and Rioja and Ribera del Duero nationally, Priorat is a wine region that has the potential to make lively, full-bodied and satisfying wines with complex characters and even some longevity in the cellar.
This Priorat in particular is a lovely example and has just about everything I would expect from this underrated region. It is very full bodied, friendly and approachable with it's fruitiness and oakiness, but it holds onto enough complexity to keep it interesting for one who is a bit more pensive with their wines. Basically, it's a good all-rounder so I could happily see it going with a big meal and being used to wash down some barbecued pork ribs and burgers, or by itself as a more thoughtful glass on it's own.
The colour is deep and nearly opaque in the glass with a ruby brilliance. The nose is quite big with plenty of deep bramble, black currant and spice as well as complex notes of smoke, new leather and licorice. There may even be some coconut in there, but it may be my imagination. Spanish wine makers often use new American oak barrels for their wines which does give the licorice and coconut aromas, so I may be expecting coconut and therefore smelling it.
The palate is gorgeous with surprisingly grippy tannins, but a nice velvety profile overall. Flakes of stoney gravel betray the licorella soil type which makes up the Catalunyan countryside and show the class of this wine. I love it when a wine shows it's terroir (even though I don't like the word terroir) and this example of Priorat certainly does. The acidity along with the tannins and the full-on fruit character leads me to think that this has some ageability in it, but I say 'why bother.' It's beautiful now and I think it's youth is in it's favour.
I do hope you consider giving this one a try, as it is a lovely bottle for around about 17 pounds. Priorat may not be as historically respected as Rioja, but I think it's a very independent Spanish style and a great value for money.
Much Love,
G
Wednesday, August 29, 2012
Posted with Blogsy
Tuesday, August 21, 2012
Growers Champagnes- Ode to the Recoltant!
Hey Everyone,
We are currently experiencing an explosive boom in the beer industry and thousands of small scale, independent microbreweries are cropping up everywhere in the UK from St. Austell's to St. Andrews, making for a very exciting time to be a beer drinker. When was the last time we saw such a revolutionary expansion in the wine world? When Australia broke onto the scene? When the Californians won the 1976 Paris Tasting? Believe it or not, a revolution is now upon us. All we have to do is look beyond the labels of some of the most resonant names in the wine world. Thereby we may be shocked by the potential excitement being generated by what may be the world's most familiar yet beguiling wine region, if we only let it enthral us as much as it should.
Several hours northwest of Paris, situated in and around the towns of Épernay, Bouzy, Dizy and Cumières, there is the historic and magnificent region of Champagne. With grand, palatial mansions and some of the most beautiful vineyard vistas you could imagine, Champagne is quite possibly the beating heart of the wine world. A stroll down the Avenue de Champagne in Épernay, is like a review of the red carpet of wine. Perrier-Jouet, Moet & Chandon, Pol Roger and so many others escort you to the centre of town and in their houses stand like behemoths facing one another, each at the centre of an intricate web of growers and wine producers.
But it is beyond these massive companies and their branding that one looks for the next great source of excitement in wine. Those lower down on the ladder. Those farmers and their personal wineries which make up most of Champagne's vineyard space are the ones pushing the limits of Champagne consumption beyond the traditional occasions. These so-called 'Grower's Champagnes' are very much akin to the Microbrewery in the beer world. They are largely independent, they pay close attention to detail and their wines are often excellent value. They worry less about their image and more about the product, which must speak for itself in lieu of mass-market advertising.
When you pay for a bottle of Joseph Perrier champagne, which may be about twenty-eight pounds, you are paying for the professionally designed boxes, the research team which maps out product placement, the payment for placement and so on. With such an army of research, management and executive individuals, very little comes down to the actual wine. Compare that to Guy de Chassey, an independent grower situated on 9 hectares near the town of Louvois. Made entirely of Premier Cru and Grand Cru grapes, the basic Champagne is comparable in quality to Pol Roger and Bollinger, and without a doubt superior to many priced well above it's modest price tag of 20 pounds! It is fresh on the nose with plenty of bright fruit, hints, but no more of creamy richness, but lots of cherry and gooseberry, showing great quality from the Pinot Noir used in the blend. That's another thing; Guy de Chassey uses 75% Pinot Noir, generally a more expensive grape, and yet here it is in a high proportion, with great execution and at a lower price. Anyone tasting Guy de Chassey will quickly realise the quality and that branding is non-essential for a great bottle of wine.
The best part of these small growers, is that they are just about endless. An enthusiastic traveller to the region would require years to visit each independent grower and try the wines they have to offer. You could quite feasibly go through a different Champagne each week for over a decade and not taste the same bottle twice. They offer value that makes their enjoyment a relatively affordable experience, so you don't need to wait for an occasion like a birthday or New Year to open a great bottle of Champagne. Now, the great bottle of Champagne can be a regular occasion in itself; one of life's small but regular pleasures. After all, that is how the Champenois live. Just as we might spend 20 pounds on a lovely bottle of wine to treat ourselves and our friends or family to a nice experience, the residents of Champagne will do so with their local wine. Now that more and more growers are finding their way onto the shelves of our wine shops and online merchants, it is becoming more and more possible to enjoy a beautiful bottle of Champagne without spending more than 20 pounds (or a bit more for a really cracking bottle!) for a priceless experience.
Of the small proportion of growers represented on the UK market, some of them can be presented as an alternative to a more famous and more expensive house. For example, Le Mesnil shares vineyards with the formidable Krug, Veuve Fourny also bears similarities to the same. Pierre Peters reminds me of Pol Roger and Chassey has something of Bollinger's power behind it. Another point is that the independent growers of Champagne still offer great value compared with comparable wines from English producers and until we see such good value low cost English bubbly on the market, they are a great value.
Sure, there is something to be said for the fact that they can be hard to find consistently. One week it may be tough to get a hold of the Chassey or the Le Mesnil, but then the drinker can go for something different. When it comes to great wine, why not seek out new experiences? Change is the spice of life and just as craft beer drinkers seek out beers they've never had, perhaps Champagne drinkers should do the same and try as many different producers as they can rather than sticking to one for life. I know many wine drinkers who have placed themselves in a camp and stayed there. Whether you're a Bollinger guy who always liked James Bond and anything James Bond likes, or Ace of Spades because you'll do whatever Jay-Z says, you may actually find yourself gaining more pleasure in the drinking experience if you ditch the big names and spring for the independents. Its like the difference between Tesco and the local butcher. Which one will care more about your enjoyment?
Champagne is a great wine. While there are good, bad and middling Champagnes out there, the style and the region is undoubtedly one of the world's finest, with a strong claim to the top spot. It is not often that an established and reliable institution comes along and presents the world with a whole new bag of tricks and says, "Oh by the way, I also have all this fun stuff!" so I think we can call ourselves lucky to have a bevy of novel Champagnes to look forward to.
One last thing; these growers are not new. Some are centuries old, and their heritage goes back well beyond the currently fashionable big brands. They have been growing the grapes for ages while the Négociants have been taking the credit. There are two little letters on each bottle of Champagne that can tell you whether the producer bought in grapes and ready-made wine or grew their own grapes and made their own stuff. 'RM' for Recoltant Manipulant and 'NM' for Négociant Manipulant. Time to give the Récoltant his credit where credit is due!
Much Love,
G
We are currently experiencing an explosive boom in the beer industry and thousands of small scale, independent microbreweries are cropping up everywhere in the UK from St. Austell's to St. Andrews, making for a very exciting time to be a beer drinker. When was the last time we saw such a revolutionary expansion in the wine world? When Australia broke onto the scene? When the Californians won the 1976 Paris Tasting? Believe it or not, a revolution is now upon us. All we have to do is look beyond the labels of some of the most resonant names in the wine world. Thereby we may be shocked by the potential excitement being generated by what may be the world's most familiar yet beguiling wine region, if we only let it enthral us as much as it should.
Several hours northwest of Paris, situated in and around the towns of Épernay, Bouzy, Dizy and Cumières, there is the historic and magnificent region of Champagne. With grand, palatial mansions and some of the most beautiful vineyard vistas you could imagine, Champagne is quite possibly the beating heart of the wine world. A stroll down the Avenue de Champagne in Épernay, is like a review of the red carpet of wine. Perrier-Jouet, Moet & Chandon, Pol Roger and so many others escort you to the centre of town and in their houses stand like behemoths facing one another, each at the centre of an intricate web of growers and wine producers.
But it is beyond these massive companies and their branding that one looks for the next great source of excitement in wine. Those lower down on the ladder. Those farmers and their personal wineries which make up most of Champagne's vineyard space are the ones pushing the limits of Champagne consumption beyond the traditional occasions. These so-called 'Grower's Champagnes' are very much akin to the Microbrewery in the beer world. They are largely independent, they pay close attention to detail and their wines are often excellent value. They worry less about their image and more about the product, which must speak for itself in lieu of mass-market advertising.
When you pay for a bottle of Joseph Perrier champagne, which may be about twenty-eight pounds, you are paying for the professionally designed boxes, the research team which maps out product placement, the payment for placement and so on. With such an army of research, management and executive individuals, very little comes down to the actual wine. Compare that to Guy de Chassey, an independent grower situated on 9 hectares near the town of Louvois. Made entirely of Premier Cru and Grand Cru grapes, the basic Champagne is comparable in quality to Pol Roger and Bollinger, and without a doubt superior to many priced well above it's modest price tag of 20 pounds! It is fresh on the nose with plenty of bright fruit, hints, but no more of creamy richness, but lots of cherry and gooseberry, showing great quality from the Pinot Noir used in the blend. That's another thing; Guy de Chassey uses 75% Pinot Noir, generally a more expensive grape, and yet here it is in a high proportion, with great execution and at a lower price. Anyone tasting Guy de Chassey will quickly realise the quality and that branding is non-essential for a great bottle of wine.
The best part of these small growers, is that they are just about endless. An enthusiastic traveller to the region would require years to visit each independent grower and try the wines they have to offer. You could quite feasibly go through a different Champagne each week for over a decade and not taste the same bottle twice. They offer value that makes their enjoyment a relatively affordable experience, so you don't need to wait for an occasion like a birthday or New Year to open a great bottle of Champagne. Now, the great bottle of Champagne can be a regular occasion in itself; one of life's small but regular pleasures. After all, that is how the Champenois live. Just as we might spend 20 pounds on a lovely bottle of wine to treat ourselves and our friends or family to a nice experience, the residents of Champagne will do so with their local wine. Now that more and more growers are finding their way onto the shelves of our wine shops and online merchants, it is becoming more and more possible to enjoy a beautiful bottle of Champagne without spending more than 20 pounds (or a bit more for a really cracking bottle!) for a priceless experience.
Of the small proportion of growers represented on the UK market, some of them can be presented as an alternative to a more famous and more expensive house. For example, Le Mesnil shares vineyards with the formidable Krug, Veuve Fourny also bears similarities to the same. Pierre Peters reminds me of Pol Roger and Chassey has something of Bollinger's power behind it. Another point is that the independent growers of Champagne still offer great value compared with comparable wines from English producers and until we see such good value low cost English bubbly on the market, they are a great value.
Sure, there is something to be said for the fact that they can be hard to find consistently. One week it may be tough to get a hold of the Chassey or the Le Mesnil, but then the drinker can go for something different. When it comes to great wine, why not seek out new experiences? Change is the spice of life and just as craft beer drinkers seek out beers they've never had, perhaps Champagne drinkers should do the same and try as many different producers as they can rather than sticking to one for life. I know many wine drinkers who have placed themselves in a camp and stayed there. Whether you're a Bollinger guy who always liked James Bond and anything James Bond likes, or Ace of Spades because you'll do whatever Jay-Z says, you may actually find yourself gaining more pleasure in the drinking experience if you ditch the big names and spring for the independents. Its like the difference between Tesco and the local butcher. Which one will care more about your enjoyment?
Champagne is a great wine. While there are good, bad and middling Champagnes out there, the style and the region is undoubtedly one of the world's finest, with a strong claim to the top spot. It is not often that an established and reliable institution comes along and presents the world with a whole new bag of tricks and says, "Oh by the way, I also have all this fun stuff!" so I think we can call ourselves lucky to have a bevy of novel Champagnes to look forward to.
One last thing; these growers are not new. Some are centuries old, and their heritage goes back well beyond the currently fashionable big brands. They have been growing the grapes for ages while the Négociants have been taking the credit. There are two little letters on each bottle of Champagne that can tell you whether the producer bought in grapes and ready-made wine or grew their own grapes and made their own stuff. 'RM' for Recoltant Manipulant and 'NM' for Négociant Manipulant. Time to give the Récoltant his credit where credit is due!
Much Love,
G
Saturday, August 11, 2012
Growers Champagne- Philippe Martin Cuvée Spéciale
Hey Everyone,
Today I'm trying a bottle of champagne from what one might call an obscure producer. Philippe Martin, a small grower in the hills outside of Bouzy, produces a range of wines from premier cru vineyards around the village of Cumières, from a basic cuvée on up to a vintage blanc des blancs as well as an interesting Cumières Rouge. The Champagnes from the range tended to be overly acidic and brashly lemon flavoured, but I was pleased with the Cuvée Spéciale, so I decided to bring a bottle home.
The wine poured in quite a lively manner. While I'm usually quite good at opening a bottle of champagne without the cork popping too loudly, but this one went off the second I twisted the the cork. The bubbles filled the glass with even the most careful of pouring, but once it calmed down, the wine itself seemed somewhat neutral in the glass. The nose is mostly defined by sweet apple pulp, with hints of pear drops and lemon drops. The palate is quite full on with the acid dominating and the bubbles disappearing almost as soon as the wine is poured.
Even so, as far as Champagnes go, Philippe Martin is a nice, affordable and easy to drink wine. A colleague refered to it, appropriately I think, as a session Champagne. True enough, if I were hosting a party or meal, I'd be happy to buy a few bottles of this to serve around, especially for the price tag. I paid 10 euros for this bottle cellar door and, though it would likely sell in Britain for about 20 pounds, I think that it is indeed worth the money. Especially compared to other Champagnes available in that price range, such as the Forget-Brimont or the Jacquart, it is a perfectly respectable wine.
I think it even throws a few punches above its weight. Discussing with another colleague, we decided that Joseph Perrier offers little, if anything more and comes with a much higher price tag. Figure in branding and packaging and the wine is about the same quality but with a higher price. If we consider the Philippe Martin as a 20 pound Champagne, then the only wines around that price I'd go for instead would be something like Delamotte and Guy de Chassey.
I hope that this wine and others like it become more readily available in Britain, and with such low prices, I see no reason why they should not. Imagine a world in which our default choice for Champagne was a small production grower's wine that changed each week! What a wonderful world it would be. Then we'd be drinking like the champenois!
Much Love,
G
Today I'm trying a bottle of champagne from what one might call an obscure producer. Philippe Martin, a small grower in the hills outside of Bouzy, produces a range of wines from premier cru vineyards around the village of Cumières, from a basic cuvée on up to a vintage blanc des blancs as well as an interesting Cumières Rouge. The Champagnes from the range tended to be overly acidic and brashly lemon flavoured, but I was pleased with the Cuvée Spéciale, so I decided to bring a bottle home.
The wine poured in quite a lively manner. While I'm usually quite good at opening a bottle of champagne without the cork popping too loudly, but this one went off the second I twisted the the cork. The bubbles filled the glass with even the most careful of pouring, but once it calmed down, the wine itself seemed somewhat neutral in the glass. The nose is mostly defined by sweet apple pulp, with hints of pear drops and lemon drops. The palate is quite full on with the acid dominating and the bubbles disappearing almost as soon as the wine is poured.
Even so, as far as Champagnes go, Philippe Martin is a nice, affordable and easy to drink wine. A colleague refered to it, appropriately I think, as a session Champagne. True enough, if I were hosting a party or meal, I'd be happy to buy a few bottles of this to serve around, especially for the price tag. I paid 10 euros for this bottle cellar door and, though it would likely sell in Britain for about 20 pounds, I think that it is indeed worth the money. Especially compared to other Champagnes available in that price range, such as the Forget-Brimont or the Jacquart, it is a perfectly respectable wine.
I think it even throws a few punches above its weight. Discussing with another colleague, we decided that Joseph Perrier offers little, if anything more and comes with a much higher price tag. Figure in branding and packaging and the wine is about the same quality but with a higher price. If we consider the Philippe Martin as a 20 pound Champagne, then the only wines around that price I'd go for instead would be something like Delamotte and Guy de Chassey.
I hope that this wine and others like it become more readily available in Britain, and with such low prices, I see no reason why they should not. Imagine a world in which our default choice for Champagne was a small production grower's wine that changed each week! What a wonderful world it would be. Then we'd be drinking like the champenois!
Much Love,
G
Friday, August 10, 2012
Classic Merlot! Thelema Mountain Vineyards Merlot 2009
Hey Everyone,
Today's wine to try is, in my opinion, an excellent bottle of one of my favourite grapes. Despite the bad press given to Merlot, I believe that it can produce some of the most delightful wines on the market. What is best about Merlot is that it does not have to be expensive to be good, but there are a few examples of world class Merlot that deserve a tip of the hat.
Just a bit of background, Merlot is the principal grape in some of the most important wines in the world, and when vinified to it's full potential, it produces the tannin and acidity needed for long ageing. Important wineries, including Le Pin, Cheval Blanc (where it is heavily blended with Cabernet Franc) and Petrus make the finest examples of Merlot and the best vintages can fetch astronomical prices.
Tonight's bottle is a Merlot from South Africa, in particular from the Stellenbosch region which produces a great proportion of South Africa's best wines. As one of my earlier posts on South Africa's wine industry makes clear, I firmly believe that this remote wine producing nation is very much an old soul in the new world. This Merlot, with its characteristics of the terroir and tannin, is very much an old world style of wine.
The wine is deep in colour with an opaque colouring. Three years on from vintage, you would expect a new world Merlot to fade a little bit, but this one is really quite inky in colour. The glass, as I swirl, is coated with thick, slow running legs, hinting at the high alcohol levels inherent in the wine.
The nose, after a bit of breathing is full of all kinds of wonderful things essential to a good Merlot. There is black berry, rasberry, hints of brambe and cassis, all proped up by rich roasted coffee and dark chocolate. There is a chalky element coming through which I believe hints at the soil of the vineyards, indicating that this wine was made with the intention that it reflect it's sense of place in the fashion of an old world wine maker.
The palate is rich and velvety with few flaws. The tannins are big and pleasing, with a chunkiness that I desire from a full-bodied wine. There are bitter elements reminiscent of the feeling left in the mouth after swallowing some 85% dark chocolate. If anything, the mineral could be more pronounced and the tannin a bit more forward. Basically, I feel that this wine has the markings of a very skilled winemaker who may be holding back for his more premium labels.
I would be very interested to try a more special Thelema bottling. I would be looking for a more bold style, with bigger tannins, more forward acidity, a greater emphasis on the terroir and overall a more Bordelais style. I feel that is what Thelema wants to produce.
All in all, I loved today's wine. I think that, as a daily drinking wine, it is a cracking bottle and for the price of just over fifteen pounds, it is a great value bottle. For those looking for a silky, chocolatey merlot executed with an esteem for class and the goal of producing an elegant Merlot, this is the bottle!
Much Love,
G
Today's wine to try is, in my opinion, an excellent bottle of one of my favourite grapes. Despite the bad press given to Merlot, I believe that it can produce some of the most delightful wines on the market. What is best about Merlot is that it does not have to be expensive to be good, but there are a few examples of world class Merlot that deserve a tip of the hat.
Just a bit of background, Merlot is the principal grape in some of the most important wines in the world, and when vinified to it's full potential, it produces the tannin and acidity needed for long ageing. Important wineries, including Le Pin, Cheval Blanc (where it is heavily blended with Cabernet Franc) and Petrus make the finest examples of Merlot and the best vintages can fetch astronomical prices.
Tonight's bottle is a Merlot from South Africa, in particular from the Stellenbosch region which produces a great proportion of South Africa's best wines. As one of my earlier posts on South Africa's wine industry makes clear, I firmly believe that this remote wine producing nation is very much an old soul in the new world. This Merlot, with its characteristics of the terroir and tannin, is very much an old world style of wine.
The wine is deep in colour with an opaque colouring. Three years on from vintage, you would expect a new world Merlot to fade a little bit, but this one is really quite inky in colour. The glass, as I swirl, is coated with thick, slow running legs, hinting at the high alcohol levels inherent in the wine.
The nose, after a bit of breathing is full of all kinds of wonderful things essential to a good Merlot. There is black berry, rasberry, hints of brambe and cassis, all proped up by rich roasted coffee and dark chocolate. There is a chalky element coming through which I believe hints at the soil of the vineyards, indicating that this wine was made with the intention that it reflect it's sense of place in the fashion of an old world wine maker.
The palate is rich and velvety with few flaws. The tannins are big and pleasing, with a chunkiness that I desire from a full-bodied wine. There are bitter elements reminiscent of the feeling left in the mouth after swallowing some 85% dark chocolate. If anything, the mineral could be more pronounced and the tannin a bit more forward. Basically, I feel that this wine has the markings of a very skilled winemaker who may be holding back for his more premium labels.
I would be very interested to try a more special Thelema bottling. I would be looking for a more bold style, with bigger tannins, more forward acidity, a greater emphasis on the terroir and overall a more Bordelais style. I feel that is what Thelema wants to produce.
All in all, I loved today's wine. I think that, as a daily drinking wine, it is a cracking bottle and for the price of just over fifteen pounds, it is a great value bottle. For those looking for a silky, chocolatey merlot executed with an esteem for class and the goal of producing an elegant Merlot, this is the bottle!
Much Love,
G
Thursday, August 9, 2012
Cline- Mourvédre
Hey Everyone,
Today's wine to try is a lovely, friendly take on the Mourvédre grape from California's Contra Costa County. Produced by the consistent wine-makers at Cline, this Mourvédre is a nice bottle of wine and a good example of an all-too rare grape variety, which has excellent potential in the dynamic climates of California. A very thick skinned grape and potentially highly tannic and age-worthy, this has been made in a more friendly, fruit forward style, even more so than the Bandolier, which I reviewed last week.
The wine is deep in colour but not entirely opaque as I have seen with other wines made of this grape variety, indicating that it has spent less time macerating (the process by which colour and tannin is extracted from the skins into the juice) than the Bandolier or more serious Mourvédre wines.
That said, the aromas are quite forward in style. Big notes of juicy black berries, stewed prunes and plums come forward with little hints of spice here and there. Not as herbal as some French mourvédres I've had but the mroe the wine breathes, the more I convince myself that there is some thyme and possibly even a hint of green pepper in there. In fact, given this wine blind, I am certain I would be likely to mistake it for a standard Californian Zinfandel.
True to it's zinfandel-like form, the palate is super juicy and jammy, with flavours of ribena and creme de cassis covering the tongue. Though I am beginning to feel that this wine is a bit superfluous (why pay twenty-odd quid for a wine that is basically serving the same purpose as a typical Zinfandel?) I do have to give credit where it is due, it is well executed and carries it's 15% alcohol level with considerable grace. The tannins are moderate and the body medium to heavy with a nice fruity profile while the wine as a whole is well balanced and easily enjoyable.
If you like your nice juicy wines, and want to try something a little different from the standard Zin, this Mourvédre is a very pleasing bottle from an established producer in California and is definitely worth considering.
Much Love,
G
Today's wine to try is a lovely, friendly take on the Mourvédre grape from California's Contra Costa County. Produced by the consistent wine-makers at Cline, this Mourvédre is a nice bottle of wine and a good example of an all-too rare grape variety, which has excellent potential in the dynamic climates of California. A very thick skinned grape and potentially highly tannic and age-worthy, this has been made in a more friendly, fruit forward style, even more so than the Bandolier, which I reviewed last week.
The wine is deep in colour but not entirely opaque as I have seen with other wines made of this grape variety, indicating that it has spent less time macerating (the process by which colour and tannin is extracted from the skins into the juice) than the Bandolier or more serious Mourvédre wines.
That said, the aromas are quite forward in style. Big notes of juicy black berries, stewed prunes and plums come forward with little hints of spice here and there. Not as herbal as some French mourvédres I've had but the mroe the wine breathes, the more I convince myself that there is some thyme and possibly even a hint of green pepper in there. In fact, given this wine blind, I am certain I would be likely to mistake it for a standard Californian Zinfandel.
True to it's zinfandel-like form, the palate is super juicy and jammy, with flavours of ribena and creme de cassis covering the tongue. Though I am beginning to feel that this wine is a bit superfluous (why pay twenty-odd quid for a wine that is basically serving the same purpose as a typical Zinfandel?) I do have to give credit where it is due, it is well executed and carries it's 15% alcohol level with considerable grace. The tannins are moderate and the body medium to heavy with a nice fruity profile while the wine as a whole is well balanced and easily enjoyable.
If you like your nice juicy wines, and want to try something a little different from the standard Zin, this Mourvédre is a very pleasing bottle from an established producer in California and is definitely worth considering.
Much Love,
G
Thursday, August 2, 2012
Not just Grüner Veltliner- Austria
Hey Everyone,
Austria is one of those countries which, like Germany and Hungary, is too often pigeon-holed as a one-trick pony by the consumer, but this is far from the truth. Germany has some lovely Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc, and Hungary does damn good dry wines as well as the world-famous Tokaji Aszú. Austria is in a similar caste. Known by and large for it's excellence in producing zesty, minerally Grüner Veltliner, Austrian wines become exponentially more popular when the summer months come along, but there is much more indeed to this central European nation's selection of wine.
One of my favourite things about Austria is that it is very keen on cultivating it's own grape varieties and maintaining traditional style. Unlike Bulgaria, which has made a name for itself by producing wines based on French and other international varieties, Austria has based it's reputation on it's own, endemic grapes. Reds like Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch can make for very appealing, full bodied wines with pungent aromas and a classic hint of slate-like minerality.
I recently tried a trio of tasty Austrian wines, none of them being Grüner and none relying on international grape varieties.
The first was a 100% Zweigelt, which was at first restrained and a bit backward, but after a bit of time breathing, it became quite rich. With a nose bearing aromas of black cherry, a bit of a sour cherry flavour to follow and an over all balanced and fruity style, the Zweigelt is a perfectly fine, easy drinking and food-friendly red. With a moderate price tag, much like the average Grüner, its definitely a wine worth considering.
The second, an interesting three grape blend, was the only one with any international varieties involved, being a hint of Cabernet blended in with both Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. It had a nice complexity to it, with an enticing nose of eucalyptus, mint and pencil lead, alongside hints of cedar wood, tobacco and river stones. The palate was nice and tannic with balancing acidity and although the finish was a wee bit off, I enjoyed my glass thoroughly, and hope that such examples of Austrian wine become more common on our shelves.
The third and final wine was undoubtedly the wine of the three. A beautifully sweet and richly fragranced Beerenauslese made entirely not from Riesling as is usual, but from the native Austrian Samling variety. It lacks the searing acidity of Riesling, so it doesn't have the penetrating acidity of it's German counterparts, but it shows a beautiful nose laden with elderflowers, orange blossoms and citrus peal. I enjoyed this wine and found it very approachable and satisfying. Even though it did not measure up with Beerenauslese I have had made from Riesling, the fact that the producer was willing to use Samling instead of the more recogniseable Riesling grape counts for a lot in my book. A very nice wine indeed and a style that should be sought out!
Overall, I was impressed by Austria's native grapes. The variety and class of the wines, even the cheaper Zweigelt was really something to consider, and I am definitely a fan of these wines and am curious to try more.
Have a look at some interesting Austrian wines if you have the chance and maybe try something a bit out of the ordinary...
Much Love,
G
Austria is one of those countries which, like Germany and Hungary, is too often pigeon-holed as a one-trick pony by the consumer, but this is far from the truth. Germany has some lovely Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc, and Hungary does damn good dry wines as well as the world-famous Tokaji Aszú. Austria is in a similar caste. Known by and large for it's excellence in producing zesty, minerally Grüner Veltliner, Austrian wines become exponentially more popular when the summer months come along, but there is much more indeed to this central European nation's selection of wine.
One of my favourite things about Austria is that it is very keen on cultivating it's own grape varieties and maintaining traditional style. Unlike Bulgaria, which has made a name for itself by producing wines based on French and other international varieties, Austria has based it's reputation on it's own, endemic grapes. Reds like Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch can make for very appealing, full bodied wines with pungent aromas and a classic hint of slate-like minerality.
I recently tried a trio of tasty Austrian wines, none of them being Grüner and none relying on international grape varieties.
The first was a 100% Zweigelt, which was at first restrained and a bit backward, but after a bit of time breathing, it became quite rich. With a nose bearing aromas of black cherry, a bit of a sour cherry flavour to follow and an over all balanced and fruity style, the Zweigelt is a perfectly fine, easy drinking and food-friendly red. With a moderate price tag, much like the average Grüner, its definitely a wine worth considering.
The second, an interesting three grape blend, was the only one with any international varieties involved, being a hint of Cabernet blended in with both Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. It had a nice complexity to it, with an enticing nose of eucalyptus, mint and pencil lead, alongside hints of cedar wood, tobacco and river stones. The palate was nice and tannic with balancing acidity and although the finish was a wee bit off, I enjoyed my glass thoroughly, and hope that such examples of Austrian wine become more common on our shelves.
The third and final wine was undoubtedly the wine of the three. A beautifully sweet and richly fragranced Beerenauslese made entirely not from Riesling as is usual, but from the native Austrian Samling variety. It lacks the searing acidity of Riesling, so it doesn't have the penetrating acidity of it's German counterparts, but it shows a beautiful nose laden with elderflowers, orange blossoms and citrus peal. I enjoyed this wine and found it very approachable and satisfying. Even though it did not measure up with Beerenauslese I have had made from Riesling, the fact that the producer was willing to use Samling instead of the more recogniseable Riesling grape counts for a lot in my book. A very nice wine indeed and a style that should be sought out!
Overall, I was impressed by Austria's native grapes. The variety and class of the wines, even the cheaper Zweigelt was really something to consider, and I am definitely a fan of these wines and am curious to try more.
Have a look at some interesting Austrian wines if you have the chance and maybe try something a bit out of the ordinary...
Much Love,
G
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