Try this great Rhône!

Here's a nice wine from right in the middle of the Sweet Spot. Not only is the price great, but it comes from a region loaded with great value wines, the Rhône. Why bother with the immature, or hastily made Bordeaux available under £20 when you can get a real beauty from the Rhône. One of my favourite wines for regular drinking, especially as accompaniment to a nice juicy steak or barbecue, is this 2008 Crozes-Hermitage from Paul Jaboulet-Aîné.

A bit of background to the wines of Crozes-Hermitage; they are always made from Syrah (sometimes with a bit of white grapes Marsanne and Rousanne in the blend but I don't think this one has any), and in their youth they have a gorgeous nose of dry roasted black peppercorns. They are usually drunk young as their big brother, Hermitage usually ages more gracefully,but a couple of years brings out some amazing aromas of green olives, brine and sea-breezes. A friend of mine said rock-pools as a tasting note for Crozes-Hermitage and it was definitely a good call.

This wine is super classic Northern Rhône. It has all the big black pepper you could want, but it doesn't dominate. There is a lot of great complexity, with some lovely red currants and black cherries, with those aged aromas of brine, olives and rock pool coming through. There's a bit of a sea breeze coming in as well carrying with it some floral fragrances. Apparently the smell of violets is standard in Rhône Syrah, but as I think about it, I've never properly smelled a violet... What kind of person has never smelled a violet? Seriously!

The palate is toasty and dry with all that pepper hanging around but mingling well with the tannins, acidity, fruit flavours and other spices, making for an elegant example of the Northern Rhône. Pair it with a nice steak, some barbecued pork or some nice slow roasted lamb. All in all, it's a really great food wine, and it can be thought of as another ingredient to the meal, almost like a condiment you put directly in your mouth rather than on the food. Give it a go sometime!

Much love, G

Paul Jaboulet-Aîné
Crozes-Hermitage
2008 Les Jalets
About £14-£15

Rioja- Blind Tasting

This week's wine to try is a bit different; in that it is four wines, tried blind by the St. Andrews Tasting Team.  Of course, the purpose of blind tasting is to contemplate the values of a wine without the prejudice brought on by labels, regions or varieties, and pass even judgement based upon your own tastes.  Alongside that aim, there is also the element of competition; trying to make a guess at what the wine is and where it comes from, which can make a blind tasting a thrilling experience.

Wines tasted included a 2007 Crianza by Marqués de Vitoria, La Vendimia 2010, a 2008 Crianza from Dinastía Vivanco, and a surprisingly youthful 1996 Gran Reserva, also by Marqués de Vitoria.  While I believe all the wines present had their merits, and all were well made, the star of the four seemed to be the cheapest; the 2008 Dinastía Vivanco.  It was oaky, fruity with a bit of spice and some rich, but soft tannins.

It was acidic enough to match with a rich meat dish, like a lamb steak or game, but also so pleasant I would happily drink it on its own.  Some of the other wines were not so fruity and friendly as this one, but with the exception of the first 2007 Crianza, all were enjoyable.

The Vendimia didn't hold up too well after having been open for very long; it became acidic and lost its fruity vibrancy, whereas the oldest of the four was surprisingly punchy with its fruit and had an overall balanced and pleasing character.

I think Rioja, while a spotty source for wines, is capable of producing wines of great value and character and the Dinastía Vivanco, despite it's slightly gimmicky bottle shape, is a testament to that potential.  At a mere £10 per bottle, its a classic, young, spicy Rioja displaying plenty of those tried and true Tempranillo characteristics.  It is oaky, but not overly so, and is just ever so pleasing.

Other wines to check out from Rioja will definitely include the 2005 Banda Roja and Banda Azul by Monte Haro, 2005 Viña Cubillo by R. Lopez, the 2001 Viña Tondonia for those looking to splash out a bit, and the Tondonia Rosé.

Hasta Luego,
George

Oddero Barbera d'Alba 2008 Old notes!

I owe this post to my brother, along with much of my best wine experiences, as he chose this wine from his shop in Tribeca NYC.  Thanks Ben!

Today's tasting comes after a delightful week on holiday away form wine tasting.  That is not to say that I have been idle in any way; quite the contrary, in fact.  Being at home with my parents in the United States has afforded  me the opportunity to try some incredible wines which are rare and difficult to find in the UK, and I have enjoyed this experience thoroughly.  Hopefully this is not the condition for too long, as I should like to encounter Jarvis and Cakebread on a much more frequent basis.  I have, however, encountered some fantastic italians as well.  This post concerns one beautiful Barbera tasted amidst the storm of the year in the wild mountains of Pennsylvania.

From an enticing price range, which I call the 'sweet spot' (£15-20), where fine wine can be found at good prices, this beautiful example of a Barbera is one my brother brought to my attention form his wine shop in New York City.  It certainly tickles my fancy for the classic Italian wine.

It is lovely and clear and the tears run down the glass to compliment the pale colour of this elegantly coloured wine.  The aromas are of ripe red cherry with hints of flowers and a bit of Earl Grey Tea.  It is surely fruity, but not unsubtle.  It has that tinge of rusticity which I so crave in Italian wine and with it comes a delightful spice.  The nose, however isn't overwhelming.  Overall, it is pensive, persistent and intriguing.

The promises made by the nose are kept on the palate as those perfumed aromas become delicate fruit flavours of sour cherry and bergamot.  If I were somewhat older (my dad loves the stuff), I'd say this wine has a  somewhat Campari-like characteristic.  Fortunately, unlike Campari, the finish is delighfully floral, gently tannic and just acidic enough to pair with the sensual Piemontese cuisine with which these grapes grew.

I am pleased to say that this classic wine checks all the boxes for me and gains all the appropriate marks.  It is friendly and lively whilst retaining something of its modesty and intrigue.  The cool-ish climate of La Morra is shown by these delicate fragrances and elegant flavours, exemplifying the virtues of Barbera.  In this respect, this wine is a delight amongst Italian wine-making; a delicious drop in a vast sea.

I must, of course, give some context to the situation in which this wine was tasted.  I was on holiday.  With my loving family.  My equally wine-loving brother.  15 of 29 first cousins and a Cat 4 Hurricane lashing our windows leaving us powerless for 3 days.  Do you know what 3 days without power does to young children these days?  They are stunningly bored!  Indeed, t'was a unique scenario for a wine tasting.  With all that family round, however, I can think of no better place for a welcome, warming glass of Barbera to warm the spirit.  Overall, it was a welcome addition to a candle-lit meal with my beloved family.

Heres to family!

G

Chianti Rufina 2007 Fattoria Lavacchio

Sometimes it can be difficult to find a good value bottle of wine from one of those regions with a popular name. In the past few months, though, I discovered if any region is a good value considering its connotations as one of the worlds most famous wine regions, it is Chianti. Over the course of this past year, during which I made a concerted effort to improve my cooking.  As a food-friendly wine, I found an old reliable of sorts in a particular bottle of Chianti Rufina.

At just under £10 it's a bargain to be sure, and never fails to please.  Completely composed of Sangiovese grapes, made in a classic style this wine is polite, still fruity and overall friendly. Is rusticity is true to it's humble origins, but it celebrates these countryside elements with a bouquet of wild flowers, berries and just a hint of spice. It's texture is dusty as the marl and chalk soil from which this wine comes.

With engaging flavours, it is simple enough to wash down a mouthful of pasta, but enjoyable enough to merit a few thoughtful sips to appreciate its more complex floral elements. The palate is predominantly red berry, some sour cherry, which reminds me a bit of Belgian fruit beers, but overall it is laced up with gentle tannins, and elements of rose water.

Overall, this wine is worth more than one visit, and with a moderate price tag of £9.99, it can be a slight upgrade from a student's standard regimen to bring to a dinner party, or just for a great bottle on a not so big budget.

Enjoy everyone! G

Chateau Musar 2001

Chateau Musar 2001

Few wine producers founded in the modern era can claim to have witnessed as many world-changing events as the famous Château Musar in Lebanon's Beka'a Valley.  Perilously close to the tumultuous border with Syria, Musar has quite literally seen the front lines of some of the world's most heart breaking conflicts.  Proprietor Gaston Hochar deserves the highest esteem for refusing to slake his production throughout multiple regional wars, meanwhile maintaining his standards of high quality and unique style.  That said, Musar, has a reptutation for streaky vintages, with some underwhelming wines for the reputation held by the château.  Let us see how this ten-year-old vintage performs...

Country of Origin: Lebanon
Region: Beka'a valley
Varieties: Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Syrah
Price range: £20-25
Biodynamic/ Organic

Appearance:  Time resting in bottle has done some lovely things to the colour of this wine.  I am a highly visual taster, and often I fear that my tastes are overly influenced by the appearance of the wine in the glass, but this is a beautiful brick red, showing a thorough aging process over the ten years since vintage.  It isn't terribly clear, somewhat reminiscent of a young Burgundy but with a slight orange tinge.

Nose:  Great aromatics to be sure, dark cherries and a dusty black currant showing the quality of the Cabernet here.  I've heard rumours that Gaston Hochar pulled a rather cavalier move in taking some Cabernet cuttings from Château Lafite-Rothschild, and if that's so, it's interesting to see how that affects this Cinsault-dominated blend.  A bit of pencil lead, which leads me to think that the Cinsault is definitely being overwhelmed by the Cabernet and a hint of brine shows the character of the aged Syrah.  Over all, a unique and complex nose, worth a long consideration.  Beautiful so far!

Palate: Despite the age on this fellow, the tannins were quite grippy upon first opening the bottle, again showing the strength of the Cabernet, but they have mellowed out quite a lot giving a chance for the delicate Carignan and Cinsault to show through on the palate.  A hint of flowers and dusty earth add a lovely complexity to this glass of fine wine.

Overall:  Some have ventured the timeless error of comparing this wine to the classic regions of Burgundy and Bordeaux, for it's elegance and it's grip respectively.  This is completely beside the point of Musar.  It is unique stuff with a character of it's own.  Definitely worth consideration as a serious fine wine for a great value.  Check your vintages and get a good one and hold onto it at least ten years!  It will reward your patience, especially when it takes part in a mouthful of good spiced roast lamb.

Definitely give it a try!