Hey Everyone,
Austria is one of those countries which, like Germany and Hungary, is too often pigeon-holed as a one-trick pony by the consumer, but this is far from the truth. Germany has some lovely Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc, and Hungary does damn good dry wines as well as the world-famous Tokaji Aszú. Austria is in a similar caste. Known by and large for it's excellence in producing zesty, minerally Grüner Veltliner, Austrian wines become exponentially more popular when the summer months come along, but there is much more indeed to this central European nation's selection of wine.
One of my favourite things about Austria is that it is very keen on cultivating it's own grape varieties and maintaining traditional style. Unlike Bulgaria, which has made a name for itself by producing wines based on French and other international varieties, Austria has based it's reputation on it's own, endemic grapes. Reds like Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch can make for very appealing, full bodied wines with pungent aromas and a classic hint of slate-like minerality.
I recently tried a trio of tasty Austrian wines, none of them being Grüner and none relying on international grape varieties.
The first was a 100% Zweigelt, which was at first restrained and a bit backward, but after a bit of time breathing, it became quite rich. With a nose bearing aromas of black cherry, a bit of a sour cherry flavour to follow and an over all balanced and fruity style, the Zweigelt is a perfectly fine, easy drinking and food-friendly red. With a moderate price tag, much like the average Grüner, its definitely a wine worth considering.
The second, an interesting three grape blend, was the only one with any international varieties involved, being a hint of Cabernet blended in with both Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. It had a nice complexity to it, with an enticing nose of eucalyptus, mint and pencil lead, alongside hints of cedar wood, tobacco and river stones. The palate was nice and tannic with balancing acidity and although the finish was a wee bit off, I enjoyed my glass thoroughly, and hope that such examples of Austrian wine become more common on our shelves.
The third and final wine was undoubtedly the wine of the three. A beautifully sweet and richly fragranced Beerenauslese made entirely not from Riesling as is usual, but from the native Austrian Samling variety. It lacks the searing acidity of Riesling, so it doesn't have the penetrating acidity of it's German counterparts, but it shows a beautiful nose laden with elderflowers, orange blossoms and citrus peal. I enjoyed this wine and found it very approachable and satisfying. Even though it did not measure up with Beerenauslese I have had made from Riesling, the fact that the producer was willing to use Samling instead of the more recogniseable Riesling grape counts for a lot in my book. A very nice wine indeed and a style that should be sought out!
Overall, I was impressed by Austria's native grapes. The variety and class of the wines, even the cheaper Zweigelt was really something to consider, and I am definitely a fan of these wines and am curious to try more.
Have a look at some interesting Austrian wines if you have the chance and maybe try something a bit out of the ordinary...
Much Love,
G
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