Wednesday, March 5, 2014

3 Malbecs- Because it's cold outside and Malbec helps...

Good evening everyone,

This evening I am writing to you regarding a trio of Mendoza Malbecs I have tried over the past few days.  They represent three separate price points and in fact three styles that I find essential to Argentine wine.  The best things tend to come in threes, so why shou
ldn't Argentine wine follow suit?

I'll distil how I feel about these three wines into very straightforward terms here; the chocolate covered sour cherry; the smoke from the parrilla; the Parker-pointer.

1. Malbec 2011 from Argento-  This is a Malbec which (perhaps inadvertently) harkens back to Argentina's past.  The colour is bright and pretty, not opaque in the slightest but certainly deep.  The aromas are of sour cherries initially and while they hold up, the nose picks up some dusty cocoa and earth along the way.  For me that is Italian all the way.  It reminds me of some lovely Barbera d'Alba. It is delightful and begs for a burger off the grill.  Even a bolognese would suit it just fine.  Its a wonderful wine for a great price.

2. 154 Malbec 2011 from Alberti- I'll go ahead and call it fitting, but there is a remarkable aroma drifting off the glass which makes an impression before I've even properly had a look at the colour.  Smoked pork.  Bacon or sausage or even grilled lamb chops... At any rate it evokes mental images of the grill and coming from a nation so thoroughly entrenched in it's outdoor cooking traditions, this makes perfect sense.  The primary fruit is restrained but the secondary aromas are forward and intriguing.  Smoky and appetising, a glass of this before attacking the Churrasco... there will be nothing left on the plate!

3. Malbec 2011 Primus- This is the Parker wine!  Inky colour introduces a nose of big, bright blackberry and blackcurrant fruit jumping out of the glass alongside some lovely smoky spices.  there is a note of leather but it remains confidently in a supporting role, as the earthiness holds back as well.  After a while the barrel and overt fruit aromas blow off a bit and the wine becomes a bit more Bordelaise in style (or perhaps Cahors would be a better comparison).  It is elegant and balanced and with time a certain gravel driven minerality emerges which even begs a comparison to Graves or Madiran.

All three are exceptional wines for their niches.  They are all undeniably Malbec, but they all fill a separate role in their approach to the variety.  The more I read and learn about Argentine wine and the journey of Malbec, the more I come to love the variety.  I'll leave you with this delightful picture which should remind us all just what Malbec is really for!

Much love,

G
My food photography skills leave something to be desired but this mini-asado was awesome!

Saturday, December 7, 2013

Holiday Wines From America

Hey Everyone,

I'm sitting in my kitchen enjoying a beautifully wintry view out the window; the result of a winter storm covering much of the United States, and i thought I'd share a couple of fantastic wines I've encountered during my stint here in America.  It's nothing new to say that America is capable of producing top-quality wines, with quantitative scoring and historic tasting competitions to back up the claim.  But what is truly exciting about many wines is the ability and willingness to experiment, take risks and try to make something truly exceptional.  Here are but a few of the exciting wines I've encountered over the past few months.

Stag's Leap Karia Chardonnay 2011- It's not always about the oak when it comes to California Chardonnay as modern producers are showing us.  That said, a little bit never hurts, especially when the oak is pretty much neutral flavour-wise and serves mostly to allow gentle oxygen contact to stabilise the wine.  Stag's Leap is of course best known for it's Cask 23 which topped many other California and Bordeaux wines at the Judgement of Paris Tasting. This Chardonnay, however is a very beautiful, almost chablis-like approach to with crisp minerality and restrained green apple and pear.  It's also significantly cheaper than it's stable-mates and alongside the Stag's Leap Sauvignon Blanc represents excellent Napa white.

Avalon Cabernet Sauvignon 2011- This is probably the best value wine reviewed here today, not only because it is the lowest priced, but because it really over delivers.  It shows off all those wonderful, rich black currant flavours, gripping, yet polished tannins and a mouthful of juicy flavour with a very pleasing price tags coming under $20.  Cassis, black berries and even a hint of bell pepper give a Cab lover his fill and make for a food-lovers wine as well.  I had this with some grilled strip steaks and thought I'd found a real gem!

Buena Vista Ramal Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007- Forget about tannins and cassis for a moment and let's talk about pretty wine.  This is most certainly that! Buena Vista makes a lot of wine and in many different bottlings so I won't make great big pronouncement of quality overall, but here's a wine I must praise.  This pinot from the Ramal Vineyards in Carneros has reached a point that showcases maturity on a very human scale.  Six years old and it has opened up all the complexities and layers you want from classy Pinot Noir.  It is floral, with violets and rose petals, yet it also comes forward with notes of raspberries and red currants.  There is a definite but light earthiness as well.  Overall, it reminds me of but not identical to, an older Nuits-Saint-Georges.  Very pretty stuff indeed!

Orin Swift, Abstract 2012- From producer David Phinney, who I consider a winemaker very much in the footsteps of the illustrious Sine Qua Non, has produced excellent wine for some time now, from his start in 1997 as a farm hand with Robert Mondavi to his own operation bearing both his parent's middle names, Orin Swift produces top-tier wines in Napa.  The wine in question here is not one of his more expensive bottlings, but it shows a cavalier approach to wine making.  A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Petite Sirah, the Abstract hits the nose like a young, Chateauneuf and slams into the palate like a Napa Cab.  Aromas of blackberries, clove and rich figs come at first, with marvellous layers of leather and earth all leading to a palate that can be described as... big.  Big tannins, big acidity make this vin de garde one that will certainly live a long, fruitful life.

I hope your winter and Holiday seasons are filled with amazing food and good company.  That's what makes December such a wonderful way to end the year.  While you're at it, remember to enjoy some amazing wine!

Much Love,

G