This evening I am writing to you regarding a trio of Mendoza Malbecs I have tried over the past few days. They represent three separate price points and in fact three styles that I find essential to Argentine wine. The best things tend to come in threes, so why shou
ldn't Argentine wine follow suit?
I'll distil how I feel about these three wines into very straightforward terms here; the chocolate covered sour cherry; the smoke from the parrilla; the Parker-pointer.
1. Malbec 2011 from Argento- This is a Malbec which (perhaps inadvertently) harkens back to Argentina's past. The colour is bright and pretty, not opaque in the slightest but certainly deep. The aromas are of sour cherries initially and while they hold up, the nose picks up some dusty cocoa and earth along the way. For me that is Italian all the way. It reminds me of some lovely Barbera d'Alba. It is delightful and begs for a burger off the grill. Even a bolognese would suit it just fine. Its a wonderful wine for a great price.
2. 154 Malbec 2011 from Alberti- I'll go ahead and call it fitting, but there is a remarkable aroma drifting off the glass which makes an impression before I've even properly had a look at the colour. Smoked pork. Bacon or sausage or even grilled lamb chops... At any rate it evokes mental images of the grill and coming from a nation so thoroughly entrenched in it's outdoor cooking traditions, this makes perfect sense. The primary fruit is restrained but the secondary aromas are forward and intriguing. Smoky and appetising, a glass of this before attacking the Churrasco... there will be nothing left on the plate!
3. Malbec 2011 Primus- This is the Parker wine! Inky colour introduces a nose of big, bright blackberry and blackcurrant fruit jumping out of the glass alongside some lovely smoky spices. there is a note of leather but it remains confidently in a supporting role, as the earthiness holds back as well. After a while the barrel and overt fruit aromas blow off a bit and the wine becomes a bit more Bordelaise in style (or perhaps Cahors would be a better comparison). It is elegant and balanced and with time a certain gravel driven minerality emerges which even begs a comparison to Graves or Madiran.
All three are exceptional wines for their niches. They are all undeniably Malbec, but they all fill a separate role in their approach to the variety. The more I read and learn about Argentine wine and the journey of Malbec, the more I come to love the variety. I'll leave you with this delightful picture which should remind us all just what Malbec is really for!
Much love,
G
My food photography skills leave something to be desired but this mini-asado was awesome! |